Breitling has been absolutely spoiling the UK this year with a suite of exclusive models that, in my opinion, are some of the nicest they’ve produced in the past 12 months. In February there was the smart, refined Chronomat and then shortly afterwards was the Superocean 44, which was similarly handsome. Now we have what might be the best looking of them all, the new UK & Ireland exclusive Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42mm.
As the name suggests it has a 42mm diameter case in stainless steel, a very common size for dive watches as it rides the limit between utility underwater and wearability on land. One thing to note is that it’s on the chunkier side of things with a thickness of 14.35mm but that’s by no means egregious. It has a gorgeous 1950s inspired design with rounded lugs that’s been modernised with updated materials – specifically the black diving bezel is made from durable, scratch resistant ceramic.
Completing the monochromatic colour scheme, the dial has an anthracite finish that works well with the black of the bezel. The subtle differences in shade between the black and grey give the watch a hint of vibrancy while remaining smartly restrained. It’s also equipped with a 1950s heritage triangle handset, which I personally prefer to the Slow Motion square hands seen on recent Superocean models. It feels more dynamic. The same is true of the hour markers which are much slimmer than many dive watches but smarter too.
With all these details combined, the Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic 42mm makes for a versatile desk diver. Meaning it’s suitable for a wide range of activities from the office to the beach. Many desk divers opt for a hint of luxury but here they’ve kept the tool watch elements at the forefront of the design. It still has a 200m water resistance rating, which is perfectly adequate for a swim even if it’s not so intense as the various 300m Superocean models.
Inside, it houses the B20 manufacture movement, an automatic calibre with a strong 70-hour power reserve. It’s also a COSC certified chronometer, meaning it has succeeded in a strict array of tests to ensure its accuracy and reliability in multiple positions and in various conditions. It’s also equipped with a date window at 6 o’clock.
I stand by my opinion that this is the nicest Breitling we’ve seen all year. The heritage aesthetic is really appealing while the case remains practical and the movement is impressive. It’s also not cripplingly exclusive with 400 pieces available while still being limited enough that not every John, Dick and Harry will have one. It’s priced at £4,650 on steel mesh bracelet or £4,450 on textured rubber strap, the standard Breitling price ballpark. Plus, it’s exclusively available in the UK & Ireland.
Price and Specs:
More details at Breitling.
Was it totally a coincidence that Michael Sonsino has just posted reviews of the latest offerings from Breitling and Omega for their latest dive watches. Anyway, maybe I am biased because I do own a Breitling (1960’s dress watch rather than a diver style watch) but don’t own an Omega of any sort.
I’m with Michael in terms of the Omega and his style preference for the mono colour variant rather than this latest green and bronze gold variant. But, what possessed them to use aluminium as the base material for the bezel insert, – aluminium oxidises, so one scratch to the coating and hey-presto, disaster. And with a cost of £10k.
Now, to the Breitling, pared back styling harking back to their Superocean 1004 from 1957 (which for me, still remains a winner), the new Breitling uses ceramic (for it’s anti scratch properties) on the bezel, and, at half the price of the Omega, wins hands-down (no pun intended). And, looks better.
No doubt this will have the Omega officianadoes and Bond types seething, but opinions do differ on all topics, not just watches.