I’ll be the first to admit to missing out on the allure of certain brand cachets, only to flip real quick when real wrist time is offered. In Glashütte this week, it happened again to my (wallet’s) chagrin, thanks to A. Lange & Söhne’s German charm.
While enjoying the alligator embrace of the new 30th Anniversary Lange 1 from Germany’s top dog A. Lange & Söhne, an entire catalogue of surprises hit me. The deep blue and rose gold of the 38.5mm model hit me hard. Not plucking, but furiously bass-slapping my heartstrings.
Visiting the brand in Glashütte this week, after trying on my favourite; the sleek, monochrome 1815 Chronograph and the indecently comfortable Odysseus, I finally had some quality time with the new Lange 1. As part of its 30th anniversary, we have been served a quad hit of the legend, in a sweetheart-sized 36.8mm for the Little Lange 1 and the standard Lange 1 of 38.5mm. With my predilection for smaller wristwear, they’re both perfection-close, but the 38.5mm version surprised me.
An airy dial composition like the Germanic-infused Lange 1 offers usually wears large, but this time, I was wrong. Sure, the deep indigo framed in 18k rose gold case might feel more compact than the typical silver-white, but whichever theory you subscribe to, the fit was superb on my close-to18cm wrist. The deep blue, annoyingly well-toned, alligator strap had the German feeling of stiffness that inevitably makes way for soft familiarity, and the 38.5mm diameter wears dead true to its size.
The case is a staunch reminder of German classicism and restraint. But with that restraint comes an obsessive sense of detail, starting with the case. The perfection is apparent in the small details like the soldered lugs, shapely with a slight bevel where they join the case, and the date adjuster at ten o’clock. Adjusting the instantaneously shifting twin date discs visible through their panorama split window is a haptic delight. The discreetly curved pusher is unusually brushed to match the middle case, with sharp bevelled edges giving it the look of a rounded 18K ingot of pink gold.
With the two sizes available, I’d be hard pushed to choose one Lange 1, both offering gently curved lug ergonomics. But this time, perhaps I prefer the largest, though 38.5mm is still pretty close to Goldilocks-sized for most. A couple of millimetres allows the golden ratio of the dial to make more of its asymmetric allure. And wearing it on my wrist in the Glashütte manufacture of A. Lange makes me understand it. Observing it dynamically on the wrist is a very different proposition to the Germanic precision of the press shots, like with any watch. The choice of a deep indigo competing with the lustre of pink gold simply endows the 30th Anniversary Lange 1 with a rich personality beyond its status.
There is a peculiar charm to the crisp white print encircling the dial, a precious use of a time-honoured German-language font that oozes class. There is much to be said for a design language where you recognise the brand origins of even the smallest part of a dial. Personally, I enjoy the pure delight of the tiny diamond-shaped hour markers. Only eight are applied on the nine o’clock main hours-and minutes-dial, but they twinkle visibly with the slightest sliver of light. To me, these details, even with the traditionalist touch of Roman numerals and charmingly serifed font on the big date, lends a timeless air to the Lange 1.
Turning around the Lange 1, it is all about the hidden complexities behind a large ¾ plate in German silver with visible gold chatons. The latest iteration of the Lange 1 movement, the L121.1, constitutes a baffling 368 parts, and a double hit of perfectionism. A. Lange & Söhne famously assemble their movements twice, with a full second clean of the optimised calibre before final assembly. The typical Lange ribbed pattern, usually known by its French Côtes de Genève nomenclature, hides 368 parts. And even if their finishing is hidden from view, the famous hand-engraved balance cock bridge says it all.
Watching the A. Lange & Söhne engravers at work was fascinating, especially as each has a signature style, recognisable after decades. But don’t be fooled by the flamboyant traditionalism at play, the L121.1 is quite the modern movement, including shock-resistance for the balance wheel, boasting eccentric poising weights and an in-house superior balance spring. If I had the choice, I would gladly rock a Lange 1 as an everyday watch, especially understanding the hidden treasure of the complex but sturdy calibre. A lottery win notwithstanding, I’d happily recommend this 38.5mm 18K pink gold version and freely admit to a strong sense of desire. Add the Little Lange in Platinum with the Onyx dial for big stealth wealth flex, and you might have a perfect two-watch collection for life.
Price and Specs:
More details at A. Lange & Söhne.
