The Best Microbrand Watches to Buy in December 2024

Timor Modern Field 100M

Timor first came to my attention for their painfully perfect Dirty Dozen re-issue a few years back, so in my head they’re quintessentially vintage. Not so the Modern Field. It still has that field watch heritage, but in a high-contrast, blacked-out-with white-numerals look that’s a world away from classic. That said, it’s still offered in a vintage size at 36.5mm, so if you really want to amp up that SAS-worthy modern military vibe, you’ll need the Expedition overcase; a hardwearing black sheath you can screw over your Timor to up its rugged cred, complete with a range of coloured inserts. It’ll set you back another £150, but for an entirely new watch (or just another option), it might be worth it.

More details at Timor.

REC Lotus 98T/4

If you don’t know REC’s modus operandi by now, let me elaborate: take metal from an iconic car, aircraft, bike, whatever and repurpose it into a thematically appropriate timepiece. We’ve seen a few brands try it over the years, but none better than REC. That’s doubly true of the handsome new ode to Lotus, the 98T/4. The number comes from Lotus 98T chassis number 4, which donated the metal here, with good looks designed in collaboration with Classic Team Lotus in black and gold John Player Special livery. It’s a gorgeous chronograph with serious heritage for a decent (and currently discounted) price.

More details at REC.

Riley Watch Co. Howard Hughes Chronograph HH02

Any pilots’ watch worth its wings has a few different ‘marks’ under its belt and burgeoning aviation brand Riley is no different. The second generation of their colourfully handsome Howard Hughes Chronograph is slimmer and smaller – and therefore more wearable – than before, with all the same chronometric chronograph performance, applied indexes and inset subdials. It’s a subtle change, sure, but one that shows Riley is striving to improve their collection one run after the next. And who doesn’t love a colourful pilots’ watch?

More details at Riley Watch.

Fleux FLX003

It’s fitting that elsewhere in this issue we go over why some watches have triangle markers at 12 o’clock (in our Oracle Speaks section, if you’re struggling to find it), as Fleux has taken that idea and run with it. Inspired by the Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle, the Fleux FLX003 blows that 12 o’clock index up to gigantic proportions and teams it with a pair of broad arrow hands to create one of the most readable dive watches in the micro space. It still has all the elements of a vintage military diver, just with a lot more flair. We love it.

More details at Fleux Watches.

Studio Underd0g 01Series Gen 3

What do you do when your movement-maker decides to make life hard and impose brand-ruining restrictions? If you’re Studio Underd0g, you use the same manufacturer but make a better movement. In the wake of Seagull upping their minimum order to a hefty 10,000 movements, Studio Underd0g took the opportunity to create a bespoke new calibre with the Chinese manufacturer, a cool, blacked-out number with a 50-hour power reserve. Sure, it’s not sexy – until you look at it through the exhibition caseback. Plus, there are other quality-of-life changes in the new version, like a slimmer 12.9mm case, a larger crown and ‘Assembled in Great Britain’ lettering on the dial. It’s not as headline-grabbing as a passion fruit collab with Moser, but for the many, many (many) fans of the brand, these are all welcome changes, for just £50 more than the Gen 2.

More details at Studio Underd0g.

Heinrich Taucher Forged Carbon V2

We’ve seen a lot of intense lume over the past year or so, from more full lume dials than ever before to full lume cases. But quantity isn’t everything and the Taucher from Stuttgart-based Heinrich is showing a more inspired use of the glowing material. The bezel and dial of the 1970s-inspired design look like classic forged carbon, but here they’re infused with lume, meaning those random patterns glow in the dark. Paired with a wavy line of lume around the circumference of the bezel – and available in both blue and red – the Taucher proves that there’s more to glowing in the dark than sheer brightness.

More details at Heinrich.

Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack

My colleague Michael all but called Venezianico’s Arsenale his favourite microbrand release of the year when the Venetian brand launched it earlier this year and it’s not hard to see why. It’s Parmigianiesque good looks and cool colours ooze Italian flair. Now though, they’re turning the lights out and incorporating one of my favourite microbrand releases (the Boldr Singularity) with a musou black dial. The paint absorbs 99.4% of light, so gazing into this particular abyss is an experience.

More details at Venezianico.

Micromilspec Monogram

While they initially cut their teeth in the custom watch world – specifically when it comes to military squadron watches – Micromilspec’s civilian, off-the-shelf debut, the Milgraph, didn’t have any customisation. Now though, the Monogram bridges the gap. Made from a similar chassis to the Milgraph, the new piece allows you to put your own stamp on the dial – literally. A family crest, a logo, letters, you can customise the dial how you want. Although I’d be careful not to take up too much of it; the diamond pattern, inspired by a Glock pistol grip, is worth leaving some space for.

More details at Micromilspec.

Detrash Gotham’s Vigilante

Batman is a name that we hear a lot in the watch world, though largely most brands are happy to let Rolex take the caped crusader’s name in vain. Not so Detrash, who have taken Bruce Wayne’s alter-ego to heart with the aptly named Gotham’s Vigilante. Almost entirely blacked out with a few hints of vintage Batman yellow, it’s made with 80% recycled steel so that you know you’re on the good team. With an automatic movement, solid specs and a strict limited edition, it’s also a steal. So maybe you’re not that good?

More details at Detrash.

Ubiq Dual Seaset

Colour, colour everywhere! Summer might be over but don’t let your wrist game cool off with this splash of colour from Singaporean microbrand Ubiq. The Dual gets its name from its two-colour bezel and the Seaset colourway – a tropical mix of orange and turquoise – is the kind of brightness I need in my life. Paired with a matching turquoise dial, and orange hour and second hands, it’s a splash of bold colour. Sure, there are more subtle colourways (the classy white and blue Navysilver, for example), but who needs subtlety? Especially at impulse buy levels of accessibility.

More details at Ubiq.