If you read the title of this article and immediately thought “didn’t IWC already release a blue Ingenieur when they relaunched the collection in 2023?” You are completely correct. They did. However, that original blue model is officially called aqua and it’s more of a teal blue-green tone than a pure blue. Which brings us to the watch I have here for review, the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Blue.

Off rip, if you’ve been hands-on with one of IWC’s current Ingenieurs, you’ve already been hands-on with this one. The case structure and design is exactly the same with a 40mm diameter and broad, integrated bracelet design featuring a wide, flat bezel with visible screws. It’s based on Gerald Genta’s original sketches for the Ingenieur SL when he had a crack at redesigning the collection in the 1970s.

On the wrist it’s very comfortable and with a thickness of 10.8mm there’s very little trouble tucking it under a cuff if required. Though it has such a perfect blend of bold sportiness and refined class that I can’t think of many situations in which you’d want to hide it away (other than perhaps walking around some of the more notorious areas of London). A key part in the cool style of the piece is of course the dial.

It features the same grid-like pattern as its stablemates, which on the white and black editions drew comparisons to a chess board, though that description features a fundamental lack of knowledge in how chess boards works – although as a side note a black and white checkered edition would be awesome. That’s not the case here though as it’s presented in a clear and visually striking blue. It’s a classic mid-tone, not as intense as electric blue, not as pale as the sky nor as dark as navy. Or even as green as aqua. When you hear the world blue, this is the colour you think of.

Turning the watch over reveals a solid steel caseback inscribed with IWC’s full name, International Watch Company, along with Ingenieur and the watch’s water resistance rating. That rating is 100m, a solid amount for a steel sports watch with integrated bracelet giving it great specs for everyday wear.

The price of the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Blue is currently not confirmed, this is an update after an initial price was announced and initially published here but which is being revised by IWC. A certain part of me wishes that this launch was a bit more exciting than a colour change on the dial. It’s a bit basic. However, I also appreciate that it is a nice dial and I’ve always been a staunch defender of the idea that giving collectors more choice is only ever a good thing.

More details at IWC.

Back in 2022 Yema revealed their new Manufacture Morteau CMM.20 movement in a limited edition Wristmaster collection. It marked the beginning of a new era for the French brand, going from strength to strength in terms of quality, design, style and in-house manufacturing. A few years later and the Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 is back for good in a permanent collection alongside an additional (and seriously cool) limited edition.

Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition

Off the bat, the Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition looks amazing. It has a unique finish that gives it a cool degraded appearance, achieved by hand brushing the dial, bezel, case, bracelet and even the movement in a particularly abrasive and random style, creating a vivid texture to the piece. Then, a black PVD coating is applied over the top for that stealth appearance.

The lines in the metal look like the delicate strokes of a brush through paint – it almost reminds me of the signature painterly style of French animation studio Fortiche, the team behind recent hit show Arcane (100% on Rotten Tomato). Due to the hand finishing, no two watches are identical, making each one an exclusive timepiece even within the broader limited edition of 200 pieces.

Moving to dimensions, the Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition measures 39mm x 9mm with an octagonal design and integrated bracelet. It makes for a versatile daily wearer, especially when it comes to the non-limited versions we’ll look at shortly. The bracelet also has a nice taper to it for enhanced comfort.

One of the most mesmerising aspects of this watch is the movement, visible through the exhibition caseback. Not only does it have the same finishing as the rest of the watch but also it’s a fine piece of horology. It’s equipped with a micro-rotor that helps to supply the watch with a 70-hour power reserve, ensuring it keeps ticking along with its accuracy -3/+7 seconds per day. Importantly it’s also manufactured and assembled in Yema’s Morteau workshop in France.

It’s priced at £1,858 so I expect it to absolutely fly off the shelves. One of the most distinctive and unusual watches I’ve ever seen Yema produce.

Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Core Collection

In addition to the limited edition above, Yema have released a standard, non-limited collection of Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 watches. They have exactly the same dimensions however there’s no PVD coating here, leaving bare steel for the case, bracelet and movement and exposing the uniform, vertical brushed finishing. On top of that, there’s some alternative polished finishing on display around the edge of the signature bezel.

As for the dial, it has a striped texture that varies in thickness to represent the natural shapes of waves or sand. It’s available in a choice of three colours, blue, champagne (officially it’s called grey but come on, this is France, and it doesn’t really look grey anyway) and a golden yellow. Of the three I prefer the sporty appearance of the blue edition although the others are enjoyable too. Really I think these three will be a much larger success than the limited edition simply by dint of the fact that more people will be able to purchase them.

They’re also a bit more accessible at a price of £1,699, which is a solid price given the high specs of the CMM.20 movement. Am I mad for thinking that Yema have been one of the most impressive brands of 2024?

More details at Yema.

While we’ve been waiting for over a decade for George R. R. Martin to drop The Winds of Winter, winter in the real world is well and truly here – at least judging by the recent snow flurries around the UK. Celebrating the cold season, Bell & Ross have released the BR-05 Skeleton Arctic Blue, a cool steel watch that features one of their most interesting dials to date.

Jumping right to the dial, it’s made from a translucent glass plate in arctic blue that’s been laser engraved with grooves that emulate the cracks in an icy surface. On top of that, a pad printing has been applied in white along the same lines, which furthers the realistic appearance of the cracks as though there’s a fine white powder of ice along their edges. It’s quite surprising for a brand like Bell & Ross to venture into the waters of realism considering how dedicated to artificial, mechanical instruments (like the BR-03 Horizon) they are.

Of course, the concept of an ice dial isn’t exactly new. However, I do rate this one quite highly because of the way it makes use of translucent glass instead of using a frosted texture. It captures the actual visual properties of ice as we traditionally think of it. Plus, it adds an additional layer to the design as we can see through the dial to the skeletonised movement housed beneath, making it look like the calibre has been frozen in ice. Like some ancient, lost technology recovered from the frozen ground and if I hadn’t used up my sole allowed pop culture reference for this article with George R. R. Martin, I would definitely draw parallels to the opening of Captain America.

The movement that’s on display is the BR-CAL.322-1, an automatic calibre with a 54-hour power reserve. In truth, it’s a little difficult to see the intricacies of the movement beneath the chipped and cracked ice dial, but I think that only helps to build the mystique and flavour of the BR-05 Skeleton Arctic Blue. It adds an increased level of depth to the display that’s really fun to explore. I also really like that it doesn’t fall into the common skeleton trap of making the time display illegible, as the hour markers and hands are still very clear and coated with lume.

Protecting the movement is the BR-05 steel case, with a diameter of 40mm and 100m water resistance in a rounded square shape. It has what is traditionally considered an urban or industrial design with exposed screws and clean facets that are made more apparent by the alternating brushed and polished finishing. However, here that urban style contrasts with the dial inspired by natural phenomena.

On top of what I think is one of the most interesting dials Bell & Ross have produced, the BR-05 Skeleton Arctic Blue is a limited edition of 250 pieces, which are exclusive to Bell & Ross’ boutiques and online shop. It’s available on either an integrated steel bracelet for £7,200 or a white rubber strap for £6,700. Of the two options I think the bracelet is the far superior.

More details at Bell & Ross.

The 1970s was a turbulent period in the history of the watch industry. It saw the advent of the quartz crisis that decimated the industry but also, by the end of the decade, became a golden era of integrated bracelet, steel sports watch design. Gerald Genta was at his prime with the Royal Oak, Nautilus and Ingenieur. But he by no means had the monopoly on this style of watch. It was in this atmosphere that the original Girard-Perregaux Laureato designed by Adolfo Natalini came to be. The legacy of which can be seen in the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green.

Holding the watch up to the light, it’s easy to admire the flawless finishing across the steel case and bracelet. While integrated designs like this are now common to find in any material, steel is the OG. The practical nature of the metal, with its scratch resistance and anti-corrosion properties, makes it the ideal material for the bold shapes and facetted angles of this style of watch. The Laureato in particular makes great use of this in its octagonal bezel and the alternating brushed and polished finishing found across its design.

Strapping the watch on, it’s presented at a diameter of 38mm, which is the mid-range size nestled between GP’s 34mm and 42mm offerings. It’s a really, really nice size (it’s very thin too, with a thickness of just 10.02mm). It’s not so large as to compromise wearability but at the same time sacrificing no amount of wrist presence compared to the larger cousins. Of course, a key part in drawing people’s eye towards your wrist is the dial, which is where the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green really excels.

Girard-Perregaux first dabbled in sage green dials earlier this year with the launch of a 42mm edition in rose gold but for my money the colour works much better here, paired with the colder tone of the steel. Look up even the most basic aesthetic design guide to sage green and you’ll quickly learn that it pairs best with neutral tones like cream and beige and the cool silver of steel adheres to that philosophy much better than rich gold. Although gold isn’t fully absent as its present via the seconds hand and the GP logo that replaces the 12 o’clock numeral.

The pattern of the dial is a Laureato signature, Clous de Paris, a hobnail style of guilloché with a repeating motif of small pyramid shapes. It almost seems to trap light, reflecting off the many micro-surfaces, occasionally creating glimpses of a more intense green where it can otherwise appear quite grey a majority of the time.

Undoing the butterfly clasp and slipping the watch off lets you take a look at the exhibition caseback. It reveals the GP03300-2476 automatic movement housed inside, which just like the case is finished immaculately, including the pink gold rotor. It sports a 46-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 4 Hz. In terms of functions, it’s a classic time and date model with hours, minutes, seconds and date.

It’s priced at £12,700, which is not an inconsiderable amount, highlighting the other, less used moniker of integrated bracelet sports watches, Sports-Luxe. However, considering that this watch was created following requests from GP’s own fanbase for a smaller, steel sage green edition, I’m sure there will be plenty of appetite for it. Alongside this model, GP have released a second version in Midnight Blue, which will likely be just as anticipated, though I personally prefer the green.

More details at Girard-Perregaux.

While we still think of Czapek & Cie. as a young brand, they’ve been around for over a decade now and next year will mark the 10^th anniversary of the launch of their first collection. And it couldn’t come at a better time for the brand because throughout 2024 they have seen a surge in popularity and buzz as collectors flock to their incredibly stylish and distinctive designs while mainstream brands struggle in the current market. Highlighting their unique style are watches like the new Antarctique Purple Storm.

As evidence of Czapek’s immense appeal, the Purple Storm was launched yesterday in a limited edition of 18 pieces and at time of writing only 4 pieces remain unsold. Which is pretty incredible considering that they’re priced at CHF 25,000 (approx. £22,500) – not what the majority of us would call an impulse buy. However, if you are in a position to casually drop that kind of cash, I totally understand why you would here because the Antarctique Purple Storm is 100% the kind of watch you can fall in love with at first sight.

Jumping straight to the dial it’s a gorgeous violet colour that shifts and weaves its way through shades of purple and black. Like a drop of iridescent purple ink in a pool of oil. It’s slick, sleek and shimmery. Captivating and mesmerising. The dial is produced by Swiss dial specialists Metalem via an artist they work with who specialises in hand-varnished dials – the same artist behind previous sell out designs like the Antarctique Orion Nebula edition. Each dial in the Purple Storm limited edition series is completely unique and is designed to be evocative of a storm cloud seen through a purple lens.

Beyond the stunning new dial, this is the Antarctique as we already know it. It has a 40.5mm steel case with an integrated bracelet design that provides an industrial-adjacent, sporty backdrop to the artistic dial. An interesting contrast that people seem to love. Powering the piece is the in-house calibre SXH5, an automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve provided by a recycled platinum micro-rotor.

Give Czapek another decade on their current trajectory and in 10 years’ time we could well be talking about them as one of the most influential brands of the modern watchmaking era.

More details at Czapek.

There are a lot of case materials that see frequent use in the watch industry, and some are more exclusive than others. That’s especially true of high-tech, advanced materials at the cutting-edge of R&D like ceramic. However, over the last three years Maurice Lacroix gave themselves the challenge to produce an accessible ceramic watch, the result of which is the new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic.

If you’re unfamiliar with ceramic, it’s an incredibly scratch resistant material capable of holding intense colour that will never fade. It’s typically made from zirconium oxide although as part of their research and development Maurice Lacroix experimented with different compounds in a variety of compositions. The outcome of these experiments is a material they’re calling ‘technical ceramic’, which combines zirconium oxide with hafnium oxide, yttrium oxide and aluminium oxide. This composition is designed to increase the material’s durability and strength while retaining the scratch resistance, colour, corrosion resistance and hypoallergenic properties inherent in ceramic.

One of the biggest challenges facing Maurice Lacroix in producing the Aikon Automatic Ceramic was the signature shape of the watch’s case and bezel. The bezel in particular was problematic because of the distinctive ‘arms’ that are presented in relief at six positions around the circular shape. In order to make them stand out they require different finishing to the rest of the case and methods of finishing ceramic are somewhat limited compared to conventional materials. I can’t think of many ceramic watches even from high end brands that feature such complex, facetted shapes in the material – the majority opting for smooth hegemony instead even when it comes to octagonal bezels and the like.

There are two size options being made available, either 39mm or 42mm. On top of that, each version is a strikingly different colour with the smaller 39mm option in white with a matching white dial and the 42mm edition in black. The two complement each other very well and would make for a cool two watch collection, you could even call it his & hers although both are in reality very unisex.

As for the dials, they both feature a Clous de Paris style texture also known as a hobnail pattern that’s comprised of a repeating motif of tiny pyramid-like shapes. It helps to give the Aikon its characteristic sporty appearance following in the stylistic heritage of watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which coincidentally is another watch well-known for utilising ceramic. However, a ceramic AP is approximately 15x the price of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Ceramic.

Inside the ceramic cases both models house the ML 115 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. It’s based on the Sellita SW200-1, a widely used workhorse calibre. While the power reserve is a little low by today’s standards, it helps to keep the overall price down. Both versions are priced at £3,100. While that’s not exactly an impulse purchase for the average person, if we’re strictly talking about ceramic watches, it’s one of the more reasonable prices around.

More details at Maurice Lacroix.

Today Collective Horology is known for being a retailer in the US that specialises in independent watch brands but that’s not how their story started. Instead the brand started by creating limited edition collaboration timepieces with those same independent brands that proved immensely popular. Across the years they’ve continued these collaborations and now they’re presenting the Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition.

It a reinterpretation of the standard Defy Skyline that was launched in 2022. I’m a big fan of the Skyline because it’s one of the few watch designs from the past five years that feels genuinely new. It’s not an homage and it’s not a heritage re-edition. It’s an evolution of the historic Defy collection and evolution means change while still being grounded in Zenith’s roots.

For the C.X Edition they’ve opted for a pared back, almost industrial interpretation of the core watch. They’ve swapped out the satin brushed finishing on the 41mm case and bezel for sandblasting, creating a matte texture. That means it catches a lot less light and begins to feel almost like a utilitarian tool watch instead of a luxury timepiece. Although the angular edges of the dodecagon bezel and the edges of the caseback retain their polished finish.

As for the dial, again that almost industrial utilitarian vibe is present thanks to a raw steel tone dial. Similarly, the star pattern that’s synonymous with the collection now only extends from the centre of the dial to halfway up the hour markers instead of to the edge of the dial. It’s interesting how much impact such a relatively small alteration has. To me it highlights the practical and technical aspect of engraving the pattern into the dial rather than having your eyes slide across it naturally in a manner that almost disregards the efforts involved. It forces you to think about the processes involved in its manufacture in a way that the original doesn’t.

However, the biggest change between the Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition and the standard Skyline is the positioning of the 1/10th of a second subdial. Instead of being positioned at 9 o‘clock, it’s now at 6. It makes for what is traditionally considered a more balanced display with a line of symmetry down the centre. A key part in that symmetry is also the removal of the date window at 3. I really like the new layout as it feels less cluttered but more impactful at the same time. Additionally, the tip of the seconds hand and the 10 numeral are orange and anyone who has read Oracle Time for a while will know that orange is my favourite colour.

Inside, it houses the El Primero 3620 SK, a hi-beat movement with a 5Hz frequency. Considering how power intensive the 1/10th of a second subdial is, the calibre retains a solid power reserve of 55 hours. You can view it through the exhibition caseback that reveals a star-shaped rotor, which is a Zenith signature.

The Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition is priced at CHF 11,900 (approx. £10,625), a touch higher than the standard models at £8,300. However, I think that increase is justified due to its limited-edition status – only 200 pieces are being made – and the significant changes to the design, especially when it comes to the dial. They are available from Collective Horology and the Zenith Online Boutique.

More details at Zenith.

One of my favourite microbrand launches of the year so far is the sporty and characterful Venezianico Arsenale. An integrated bracelet sports watch with a gorgeously minimalist dial that puts all the emphasis on its finishing. Evidently Venezianico agree that this minimalist element is a core element of the design because now they’ve doubled down on that aspect of the watch by introducing the Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack.

Jumping straight to the dial, it’s now painted absolute black with Musuo Black paint. If you’ve never come across Musuo Black before, it’s an incredible paint that absorbs 99.4% of the light that touches it, giving it an incredibly strong black colour that looks like an empty void. A handful of watch brands have adopted to colour for their watches, notably Venezianico have used it previously on their Nereide and Redentore Ultrablack editions, as well as brands like Boldr with the Singularity. A step above Musuo Black is Vantablack as used by H. Moser & Cie..

For the Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack they’ve stripped away the hour markers and minute scale, leaving the dial more exposed to be admired. The only adornment is the tiny Venezianico cross above the central hands that are themselves skeletonised to reveal yet more of the dial beneath them. Paired with the 40mm, steel sports case it’s an interesting fusion of styles that works really well.

Turning the watch over it retains the solid caseback of the original collection with a significant change. Instead of an engraved image of the Venice Arsenale (a famous building in Venice) it features a satellite floating in orbit above the Earth with a shuttle in the background. It represents the bond between the past and future from the ancient canals of Venice to the final frontier, space. Behind the caseback is the Miyota 9029 with automatic winding and a 42-hour power reserve.

The watch is available to purchase from November 26^th at 2pm GMT at a price of €800 (approx. £670). It’s presented on either a rubber strap or an optional steel bracelet for an additional €100 (approx. £80). I really like this as a follow up to the original Arsenale collection because it feels more special than a simple colour change, which on a technical level is essentially what this is. It’s amazing how much of an impact Musuo Black can have on the style of a watch.

More details at Venezianico.

The rumours are true: Patek Philippe’s first new collection since 1999 is here and, unless you’ve had your ear to the ground for the last couple of weeks, it’s probably not what you’re expecting. This is, of course, the new Patek Philippe Cubitus – and it’s certainly something. It’s also, very firmly (according to Patek themselves) square.

The Cubitus is, first and foremost, Patek Philippe’s first square watch. They’ve dabbled in ellipses aplenty, circles of all sizes and whatever you want to call the Gondola, but this is their first square, and was apparently somewhat of a passion project for Patek’s Thierry Stern: “since I was quite young, I always challenged myself to say, ‘I need to have also a beautiful square watch in the collection.’ So that’s how we started, actually.”

And yet, it’s not entirely square, either. With it’s octagonal bezel, with four shorter and four longer sides, it aesthetically feels like they’ve simply squared the circle of the Nautilus. The similarities to Patek’s genuinely iconic sports watch don’t stop there either. The new Cubitus has similar bold shoulders either side and even the same grooved dial and integrated bracelet as the Nautilus. So while it may be a first for the Swiss watchmaker and might feel pretty left-field, it’s not exactly a huge departure from their usual sports style. If you’ve ever seen the old ‘Nautellipse’, the Cubitus fits in rather well.

As you’d expect with this calibre of watchmaking, the case surfaces are alternately brushed and polished, emphasising that striking shape across the many edges. I don’t really need to go into the finishing too much; it’s a Patek, you know it’s going to be phenomenal.

There are currently three models in the collection. The first is in steel with a green dial, marking an entrypoint into the Cubitus collection. The second is my favourite of the three, a rose gold and steel bi-colour number with a classic blue dial. The last is the complicated version, a platinum case with a blue dial and grand date, day subdial and moonphase.

The green will set you back £35,330, the bi-colour £52,480 and the platinum £75,690. The time-only models are equipped with the calibre 26-330 C with a 35–45-hour power reserve. The day-date watch uses the 240 PS with a 38–48-hour power reserve. All the movements are, of course, visible through the exhibition case back and are, equally obviously, stunning.

Now, there’s been some divisiveness around the Cubitus. Square watches aren’t for everyone and a square version of the Nautilus isn’t something anyone was particularly clamouring for – except perhaps Stern himself. But all the furore is around the shape. The watch itself is well-made, has all those Patek hallmarks and scratches that well-heeled steel sports watch itch. I imagine it will go the way of the Code 11:59, divisive now but something we’ll all soon calm down over and accept. At the very least, it’s nice to have something even harder to get hold of than a Nautilus.

It might not be the 5711 replacement we were all hoping for, but maybe it’s the one we deserve?

More details at Patek Philippe.

I must admit that I have never visited Venice but the more I look at Venezianico’s watches the more I want to. Venezianico, for those unfamiliar, is an Italian microbrand that takes its inspiration from the aquatic city it calls home. Surrounded by water as they are, their flagship watch is the Nereide, a cool dive watch available in a number of colours and styles. They also produce a dress watch and a chronograph. However, their newest collection is none of those things. Instead, it’s a somewhat sporty, industrial-chic watch with an integrated bracelet called the Venezianico Arsenale.

The name Arsenale comes from a famous building in Venice. The Arsenale was built in 1104 and is the major pre-industrial shipyard and production facility that crafted The Republic of Venice’s legendary trading and military fleet, which made the city a powerhouse in the Mediterranean. It was the industrial heart of the city employing around 2,000 people at maximum capacity. It’s where the hard work happened to turn the rest of Venice into the cultural centre of art and design as we know it today.

It’s this combination of industry and culture that inspired the Venezianico Arsenale. Starting with the case, it has a 40mm diameter in steel with an integrated bracelet design. Steel integrated bracelet watches were popularised in the 1970s by famous designers like Gerald Genta who created timepieces like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and IWC Ingenieur. They tend to have bold, sporty shapes and geometric focusses that give them a quasi-industrial aesthetic and the same is true of the Arsenale here.

It has a round design with large, flat surfaces and sharply angled facets that lead directly into the bracelet. The bracelet itself is the latest generation of Venezianico’s Canova Concept, a style of H-link bracelet where the links alternate between being convex and concave. The facets of the design are further emphasised by the contrasting brushed and polished finishing on alternating surfaces. Matching that is the coin-edged bezel, which really shows the blend of refinement and industrial vibes.

Continuing that same concept is the dial, which has Côtes de Genève finishing available in either blue, anthracite or violet. Côtes de Genève, sometimes known as Geneva Stripes due to the vertical striped appearance it creates, is a form of elegant finishing often seen on a watch’s movement. It’s associated with the machinery and mechanics of a watch, not typically the main display. Industry presented as art – this watch has really nailed its theme. Beyond the finishing of the dial, it remains quite modest and restrained. It has understated baton hour markers, skeletonised dauphine hands and the brand’s Venetian cross logo.

Protected by a solid caseback that depicts an image of the Arsenale, the Venezianico Arsenale houses the Miyota cal. 9029. It’s essentially a two-hand version of the more widely used 9039 and has the same specs such as the 42-hour power reserve and -10/+30 seconds per day accuracy.

The Venezianico Arsenale will be available for purchase from September 26^th at a price of €800 (approx. £675). At that price its main competition is the Tissot PRX, which is also an accessible integrated bracelet sports watch. With the Powermatic 80 I think the PRX wins the technical battle but in terms of style and exclusivity, the Arsenale takes it by a landslide. As a closing thought, I think this might be the closest thing to an accessible take on the Parmigiani Tonda PF I’ve seen to date.

More details at Venezianico.

We recently talked about the Hublot Classic Fusion WOTC boutique exclusive, a cool time-and-date watch with carbon bezel. Now I’ve been able to get hands-on with a different exclusive Classic Fusion, the Essential Grey edition that’s only available online. Let’s take a closer look.

As the name Classic Fusion Essential Grey implies, this watch is monotone in colour with the light grey/silver dial matching the time of the titanium case. When I first looked at the watch I assumed it was made of steel due to the relatively light colour of the metal and the combination of brushed and polished surfaces. Titanium is a notoriously hard metal to polish well and yet the Classic Fusion Essential Grey has polished screws, a polished edge to the wide, circular bezel, polished lugs, a polished caseband and a polished crown, alternating with areas of satin brushing.

This is only possible because Hublot have used high quality grade 5 titanium. Grade 5 titanium is a bit harder than alternative titanium alloys, which means it takes a polish better. On top of that because it’s also incredibly lightweight, it’s barely noticeable on on my wrist despite measuring 42mm in diameter. Although it’s also relatively thin with a thickness of around 11mm, which is much slimmer than I would expect given the layered, somewhat industrial appearance of the case.

Focussing in on the dial, it’s very understated, something I don’t normally say about Hublot. The base is silver with sunray brushed finishing while the hour markers are polished, facetted batons, as are the hands. There’s a date aperture at 3 o’clock with black numerals on a white disk. It’s not exactly an exciting display but I also appreciate the restraint compared to some of the extravagance seen on models like the Big Bang. It fits with the idea of this being an essential model.

One of the most interesting parts of this watch is actually the strap, which is integrated into the body of the case. It’s a rubber number with a tightly woven fabric layer in its top that gives it the impression of a Milanese bracelet. It’s a really nice texture to run your fingers over. It uses a deployant buckle clasp, making it easy to adjust the size and comfortable to wear.

Once you’ve unstrapped the watch you can see that the caseback is very flat, which is a large contributing factor to the Classic Fusion Essential Grey’s overall thinness. You can also see the exhibition window through which is the calibre HUB1110 with an automatic rotor featuring a skeletonised Hublot logo. It has a combination of brushed and polished surfaces matching the rest of the watch and while it’s not the brand’s higher-end UNICO number, it still has a 42-hour power reserve.

I always enjoy getting hands-on with Hublot watches because it lets you formulate an honest opinion without the internet buzz that often follows the brand around online. I think this is a very nice watch, the monotone colour scheme works well and it has a cool sports integrated strap design that works really well at this size. My only reservation is the price, which at £7,300 is slightly above where I’d expect a grade 5 titanium time-and-date watch to sit. However, I’d also be happy to go on record saying this is one of my favourite Hublots around.

More details at Hublot.

Back in 2022 Zenith surprised us all with the launch of the Defy Skyline, a cool integrated bracelet sports watch with a four-point star motif that really made a splash. Its launch also coincided with a time when integrated bracelet sports watches were at the height of their popularity, which instantly boosted it to becoming one of the breakout stars of watchmaking that year. Building on that popularity Zenith have continued to release new editions and explore alternative iterations of the design. Which leads us to the release of the new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition.

The Defy Skyline Chronograph was first released at Watches & Wonders earlier this year. However, we didn’t cover the story at the time because we prioritised the Defy Extreme Diver and the revival of the Defy Plongeur, which were released concurrently. That’s part of the reason I want to talk about the new boutique edition even though it’s technically just a new colourway, as it means we can finally talk about the Skyline Chronograph in general.

It measures 42mm in diameter with the signature facetted case shape of the Defy Skyline range.  The case itself is octagonal while the broad bezel that sits atop it is a dodecagon, presenting an interesting contrast in shapes, emphasised by the alternating brushed and polished surfaces that really bring out the facets. Of course, as a chronograph model the crown at 3 o’clock is now flanked by pushers, which here follow a similarly angular design and wide, flat surfaces. It feels appropriately sporty.

The dial has the signature star-field design of the standard Skyline, as opposed to the warped version found on the Tourbillon model although I do really like that variation. For the boutique edition, the base of the dial is a lovely slate grey colour while the stars, hands and hour markers are all in a rose gold tone. It makes for a striking appearance and is one of my favourite designs Zenith do (they’ve used this combination on previous boutique editions). The standard collection consists of blue, white and black dial versions.

As for the chronograph display, they’ve opted for a tricompax layout that’s closely clustered around the central hands. Packing it tightly in the centre means there’s more open dial space for the signature motif around the edges. The three subdials consist of small seconds 9 o’clock, a 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock and a 60-second counter at 3 o’clock. What makes this special is that on the majority of chronographs, the 60-second counter takes the form of the large, central chronograph hand, but here that central chronograph hand is instead a 1/10^th of a second chronograph counter, meaning it completes a rotation once every 10 seconds.

This is made possible by the El Primer 3600 automatic chronograph movement. It operates at a hi-beat frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, which is 5Hz. On top of that, it manages to maintain a power reserve of 60-hours, which is impressive given the power intensive nature of such a high frequency and the frenetic chronograph display.

Considering how impressive the movement is, it’s no wonder that the Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition is priced at £12,100. That’s the same price as its standard edition counterparts, which makes sense because it’s functionally identical. It will just be a touch more exclusive as it’s only available from Zenith boutiques.

More details at Zenith.

Last year it felt like you could not so much as mention the watch industry without someone bringing up the Tissot PRX. That’s how thoroughly ingrained in the zeitgeist this accessible integrated bracelet sports watch was. These days it’s a little less ever present but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t crop up every now and then. Especially when Tissot release cool new editions like the PRX Powermatic 80 Gradient edition I have here for review.

Strapping on the watch with its signature single link, integrated bracelet and butterfly clasp, it feels… exactly like every other Tissot PRX. This shouldn’t come as a surprise because the case and overall design of the watch are identical to the previous editions we’ve seen over the past few years. The watch body measures 40mm in diameter and has a thickness of 10.9mm in stainless steel. It’s not overly heavy and is on the whole very comfortable – it wouldn’t have become the phenomenon it is if they messed up the basics after all.

Where the PRX Gradient really shines is the dial, which is where you’ll find the titular gradient. The edition here has a cool ice blue to dark blue colour shift on a linear axis. There’s also a black to blue version if something a bit moodier takes your fancy. However, I personally prefer the lighter tone of the pure blue gradient because it reminds me of a glacier or the frigid waters of the arctic sea – both popular inspirations in the watch world.

The dial itself consists of a tight square pattern reminiscent of that other luxury sports watch icon, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, albeit at a much finer scale. The hour markers are thin, straight batons with strips of lume, as are the hands. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock to complete the time and date complications. It’s about as understated as it’s possible to get, which I like about the display though I have heard some opinions that it’s a touch boring. The addition of a sweeping gradient certainly helps to combat that though.

Undoing the bracelet and flipping the watch over reveals the exhibition caseback, which sits nice and flat against the wrist when worn. Through the window you can see the signature wave engraved rotor with Tissot logo of the Powermatic 80 movement. I feel like I’ve written about this movement at least 100 times at this point with its 80-hour power reserve that it achieves at the cost of a slightly lower frequency. You could be nit-picky about some of the details such as that frequency (3 Hz) and its plastic parts, but ultimately it has always been presented as an accessible option and it is genuinely great for the price.

Speaking of price, the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Gradient is £640, matching the rest of the PRX Powermatic range. I think expecting this watch to totally reshape how we view the PRX and bring the model back into the limelight that it once had is asking too much of what essentially amounts to a new colourway. At the same time the new colours are great and I’m always a fan of when brands offer customers more options. If you were on the fence about buying a PRX, maybe this is the version you were waiting for.

More details at Tissot.

While Carl Suchy & Söhne are an Austrian brand who typically find inspiration in Vienna, their latest releases are named after two of the most popular wine regions in France. They’re the Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Champagne and Bordeaux. Technically they’re named after the colours which just happen to be named after the wine regions, but it’s an interesting coincidence, nonetheless.

The Belvedere collection was released in 2023 as a sporty alternative to the brand’s typical refinement and elegance. Although, despite that sporty character, it retains the characteristic alternating stripe motif that’s something of a signature. For the 2024 additions, the core structure of the Belvedere has been retained with a 40.8mm diameter in steel, broad, flat bezel and integrated strap.

As I hinted to in the introduction, it’s the colours of the dials and straps that make these watches stand out from the original editions. The first is champagne, which is a lovely off-white, cream tone that really suits the intricate design of the dial. It’s much warmer than the stark white edition which almost seems sterile in comparison.

Second is the Bordeaux, which is a rich wine-red tone. As a completely unrelated side note, this is the colour I imagine when Homer notes the ‘wine dark sea’ in the Odyssey, although I understand that that description comes more from the artefacts of translation and also archaic languages and cultures not having comparable terminology to contemporary English than it does the actual colour of the sea. Bringing us back to the watch world, the tone is reminiscent of the Fears x Christopher Ward Alliance 01 watch, which also looks great.

Powering both the Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Champagne and Belvedere Bordeaux is the CSS201, an automatic movement based on a Dubois Dépraz calibre. It has a 42-hour power reserve which is the new baseline these days now that sub-40 reserves are starting to go the way of the dodo. It’s the same movement as used in the originals, which is also why the new duo have the same price at €7,900 (approx. £6,660).

More details at Carl Suchy & Söhne.

Street art is one of the most diverse and vibrant of the artistic disciplines, if you can even describe it as such. Using urban landscapes to tell stories, promote ideas and express creativity in a way that is deeply human. As a part of that, having a recognisable style helps to spread your message and create connection and one of the most instantly recognisable styles is that of Argentinian-Spanish artist Felipe Pantone, who had his start in graffiti and who has just collaborated with Zenith on the new Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone (based on the Skyline Tourbillon launched in February).

Pantone’s work is inspired by the clash between physical and digital media in the age of television and the internet. A time where a large amount of the light that our eyes receive comes from the pixels of screens rather than the natural world. As such, his art is often centred around the idea of glitches and pixels as well as the digital light spectrum that you can see reflected in the back of CDs or DVDs, or when you press on a retro computer screen too hard. All these ideas are reflected in the Defy.

Starting with the case, it’s more or less a standard edition of the Defy Skyline. It features the signature octagonal bezel that sits atop the broad, flat surfaces of the 41mm diameter steel case. The hint that this is a special edition is the engraving of FPT1 (Felipe Pantone Tourbillon #1) across the four corners of the case where the facets of the top and sides meet leading into the interchangeable steel bracelet. It’s strongly influenced by luxury sports watch design from the 1970s.

However, while the case is 70s in style, the dial is anything but. The main disk of the dial is made from sapphire that’s been micro-engraved with concentric circles. Then, the underside has been given a mirrored, metallic finish that reflects light back up through the sapphire dial, creating a prism-like quality that diffuses light in unexpected ways. You can immediately catch the connection to Pantone’s work such as the influence of CDs. It’s extraordinarily unusual and visually stunning.

Elsewhere on the dial you have the titular tourbillon located at 6 o’clock. This has been decorated with the blue-red gradient often seen in Pantone’s works and the main bridge has been shaped like a lightning bolt, also a common Pantone motif. The same is true for the central hands and hour markers around the edge of the dial, which are regular batons at the cardinal points but glitchy bolts everywhere else. It’s almost as if you’re looking at the watch on a shattered monitor.

The movement inside is the El Primero 3630, an automatic tourbillon calibre with a power reserve of 60-hours. You can view it through the exhibition caseback where the star-shaped rotor is once again dressed in the signature colour gradient. This effect is achieved through a PVD technique that Zenith and Pantone developed together in 2021 for one of their earlier collaborations.

In terms of price and availability, the Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone is limited to 100 pieces at a price of £56,100. It’s also presented in a custom watch box with an iridescent pattern inspired by Pantone’s style. Personally, I’m not a passionate follower of Pantone’s work so the collaboration side of this release isn’t that exciting to me. What I do like though is the way that by working with a creative, Zenith have managed to produce a dial that feel conceptually and visually unlike anything I’ve seen before. It’s modern and contemporary, which feels like a very daring thing to do when the watch market is obsessed with retro nostalgia.

More details at Zenith.

As the world and fashions change, Japanese anime and manga are charting a steady path towards the mainstream. Due in all likelihood to Studio Ghibli offering a gateway from the west to Asian styles of storytelling and animation. I must profess myself to have watched some widely acclaimed anime such as Neon Genesis Evangelion from the 90s. However, Tissot’s latest PRX launch is themed after a show from what some consider the golden era of anime, the 1970s. Specifically the new watch is the Tissot PRX 40mm UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition.

If you’re unfamiliar with UFO Robot Grendizer, the brief synopsis is that an alien prince whose homeworld has been destroyed by Vegans (the people of Planet Vega, not the plant eaters) arrives on Earth in a robot warsuit called Grendizer and proceeds to protect the planet when the Vegans come knocking here. It falls squarely into the space opera and mecha style stories that were popular in the 70s; think Mobile Suit Gundam, which came out slightly after. Coincidentally, the 70s was also the decade that the Tissot PRX made its debut, hence the collaboration here.

Getting into the specifics of the Tissot PRX 40mm UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition, it has a very normal case by PRX standards. It measures 40mm in diameter in steel with a broadly tonneau shape, a round dial and a smooth, polished bezel. The large, flat surfaces lead into an integrated bracelet with single link construction.

Where the anime connection comes to the fore is the dial, which features a prominent image of the robot Grendizer picked out in yellow lume against a blue backdrop. Above the robot’s head, on the watch’s flange, is the inscription “UFO ロボ グレンダイザー”, the original Japanese name for the show. It makes for a pretty spectacular display in low light conditions when it looks like the character could be part of the Tron universe. Whereas in the daylight the image of Grendizer fades to the extent that you might mistake him for a random geometric pattern akin to those we’ve seen on the PRX before.

Turning the watch to the exhibition caseback shows a custom Tissot x Grendizer rotor on the Powermatic 80 calibre. You can also see an inscription celebrating the watch’s status as a special edition and the official collaboration with Go Nagai, the manga artist and author who created the original stories.

Regarding the collaboration Go Nagai stated, “It’s fascinating that UFO Robot Grendizer and the Tissot PRX both started in 70s. They come from different worlds, but the collaboration brought out a special meaning.” He elaborated on the collaboration’s significance, adding, “By merging UFO Robot Grendizer’s fight for a better future with the PRX’s journey of marking life’s milestones, we’ve crafted a watch that is a true tribute to their legacy and heritage.”

The watch is presented in a custom watch box shaped like Spazer, Grendizer’s UFO, the device he uses to fly across the Earth and in space. It’s a fun addition that helps the watch feel like a proper collector’s edition. It’s priced at £785 and is available from the Tissot online store and at their Covent Garden boutique in London.

More details at Tissot.

Louis Cartel Charlemagne II Titanium Black

Europe has one of the most diverse and competitive microbrand and independent watch design scenes in the world. Making a name for yourself is no easy feat. However, despite facing many challenges, Louis Cartel have risen as one of the fastest growing European watch brands in the last two years, founded in Paris in 2022. Following sell-out first and second collections they’re back with their latest offerings in updated colours and styles.

One of the stand-out watches from Louis Cartel’s early collections was the Charlemagne I, which became the brand’s signature model. So, it’s no surprise to see a follow-up in the form of the Charlemagne II. It’s a tonneau timepiece that measures 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 15mm, giving it the same bold and urban aesthetic favoured by hyper luxury brands like Bianchet and Richard Mille at a drastically more accessible price point.

Louis Cartel Charlemagne II Rose Gold

Its steel case is available in a handful of coloured coatings including rose gold and titanium black. Compared to the Charlemagne I, the biggest visual update comes on the dial. It’s still modern and openworked but the Charlemagne II has big Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. As a result, the level of openworking is much more intricate and architectural, revealing the Miyota 8N24 with 42-hour power reserve housed inside.

Louis Cartel Suvari Forest Green/Navy

Second in the new collection is a new edition of the Suvari. It’s a quartz timepiece that pays tribute to the legendary works of designers like Gerald Genta. A broad octagonal bezel sits atop a 41mm steel case with integrated steel bracelet. The new selection introduces forest green and navy blue dials, which are much more intense and vibrant than the original ice blue, black, gold and olive green versions.

Louis Cartel Tinera De Louis Cartel Midnight

Last up is a quartet of new Tinera De Louis Cartel references. Similar to the Suvari, these are integrated bracelet sports watches with quartz movements. The shape though is a cushion case design instead of an octagon and it’s also much wider at a diameter of 43mm. As for colour, there’s a blue, red and black, called the CEO, Cherry and Midnight respectively. The fourth watch in the collection is called Royal Blue with a blue dial and rose gold PVD case.

With such confident style available for £196-£247 depending on the model, it’s little surprise that Louis Cartel rank in the top 10 fastest-growing watch brands in Europe. The Charlemagne II in particular shows great promise in terms of being an accessible mechanical timepiece with room to help Louis Cartel develop their individual style further, something which is important for all young brands finding their place in the industry.

More details at Louis Cartel.

What is the most influential watch model introduced in this decade? By which I mean a family or sub-family of watches that did not exist prior to 2020 but that has become an industry and collector staple. There are two that come to mind. First is the Rolex 1908 because how can it not be. Second is the Zenith Defy Skyline, a sub-collection of the Defy range that helped to define the integrated bracelet sports watch trend of 2020-2023. I got hands-on with the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic learn more about where the series is heading.

Strapping on the white ceramic watch it’s impossible not to be drawn to talk about the material first. The irregular octagonal case, the dodecagon bezel and H-link bracelet are all made from ceramic with a brushed surface in pristine white – as bold and brash as they come. The watch body has some weight to it, the bracelet feels very light which leads to some complaints that the watch feels too much like a toy. However, as someone who owned a white plastic Swatch with a union jack dial when I was 11 because I thought it was cool (forgive me), I can tell you that this is a very different beast.

Measuring 41mm in diameter with a height of roughly 13mm, it’s large without being unwieldy. The flat, facetted surfaces make it feel broad, as does the oversize crown that hints at Zenith’s aviation roots. On the wrist it has undeniable presence but at the same time it’s not particularly difficult to slip under a cuff if needed. Plus, the ceramic and sapphire caseback is completely flat, making it smooth against the skin and very comfortable.

Focussing in on the dial, it’s as bold as the case its housed in. A blue open-worked number skeletonised into the shape of a four-point star. I’ve seen a lot of Skyline Skeletons online but this is my first time seeing one in the metal and I have to say, it’s a lot cooler in person. Online images really do not do justice to the depth and layering of the mechanisms on display. Plus, the blue colour really responds well to different lighting conditions, ranging from almost black to bright sapphire blue.

However, the highlight of the display is the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. It’s a 1/10^th of a second indicator, meaning that the hand rotates once every 10 seconds as opposed to once every 60, giving it a dynamic and energetic appearance. It’s powered by the calibre El Primero 3620 SK, which is the first movement in the world with a 1/10^th running seconds display. It also operates at a high 5 Hz frequency with a power reserve of 55-hours.

Is the Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic a watch for everyone? Definitely not. The bold aesthetic is definitely an acquired taste and it will only suit people with the charisma and character to pull it off. Plus, the £15,800 price tag is quite a significant barrier to entry. However, I’d also say that this is not a watch to dismiss outright at first glance, spending time with it really reveals that it’s quite a stunner.

More details at Zenith.