Sports Watches Archives - Oracle Time https://oracleoftime.com/tag/sports-watches/ Watch & Luxury News Tue, 10 Dec 2024 08:58:42 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 https://oracleoftime.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/cropped-OT-New-Logo-Fav-32x32.png Sports Watches Archives - Oracle Time https://oracleoftime.com/tag/sports-watches/ 32 32 Grand Seiko Reimagine ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival in Titanium https://oracleoftime.com/grand-seiko-icefall-hi-beat-1998-revival-titanium/ https://oracleoftime.com/grand-seiko-icefall-hi-beat-1998-revival-titanium/#respond Tue, 10 Dec 2024 03:00:00 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=200640 A lightweight take on the recent Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival in titanium offering everyday wearability. ]]>

Grand Seiko Icefall Hi-Beat 1998 Revival Titanium

When we’re talking about Grand Seiko, it’s usually the dial that steal the headlines, but that’s not the case with the SBGH349 ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival. It has exactly the same dial as the SBGH347 that was released back in September. What makes the new edition different is that the steel case has been replaced by titanium.

Grand Seiko Icefall Hi-Beat 1998 Revival Titanium

The new titanium case is larger than its steel counterpart, measuring 40mm x 12.95mm. However, where titanium really excels compared to steel is in its strength-to-density ratio. What that means is you can achieve the same degree of resilience and strength from a titanium watch case at a much lighter weight. In fact, titanium is approximately 45% lighter than steel. Plus, thanks to Grand Seiko’s particular high intensity titanium, it remains nice and tough.

Grand Seiko Icefall Hi-Beat 1998 Revival Titanium

Grand Seiko don’t publish their watches weights so it’s difficult to numerically express the impact of this material change here. In principle though it means the ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival Titanium is much easier to wear for long periods of time without fatiguing the wrist. Whether that’s a working day or an evening’s soirée.

Grand Seiko Icefall Hi-Beat 1998 Revival Titanium
Grand Seiko Icefall Hi-Beat 1998 Revival Titanium

While the case is the updated feature of this watch, we should still touch on the dial. It’s inspired by the concept of an ‘Icefall’, a rapidly flowing portion of a glacier with a high proportion of crevasses. The pale blue tone with crevasse-like texture feels particularly wintery – it would definitely be worthy of inclusion in our Best Ice Dials article.

Beneath the icy surface is the hi-beat 9S85 automatic calibre. It has a power reserve of 55-hours and operates at a 5 Hz frequency, helping to ensure impressive accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day. It’s the same movement as is found in the steel edition of the watch.

Grand Seiko Icefall Hi-Beat 1998 Revival Titanium

As you might expect from the upgrade in materials, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival in titanium is a touch pricier than its steel counterpart, £6,650 compared to £5,950. That’s an increase of £700, which I think is a solid representation of the value difference between the materials when it comes to high-end watchmaking.

Price and Specs:

Model: Grand Seiko Icefall Hi-Beat 1998 Revival
Ref: SBGH349
Case: 40mm diameter x 12.95mm thickness, titanium
Dial: Ice blue inspired by the icefall on Mount Iwate
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Power reserve: 55h
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Price: £6,650

More details at Seiko Boutique.

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Timex Automatic 1983 E-Line Reissue Is an 80s Inspired Value Proposition https://oracleoftime.com/timex-automatic-1983-e-line-reissue/ https://oracleoftime.com/timex-automatic-1983-e-line-reissue/#comments Mon, 02 Dec 2024 13:44:31 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=200336 A ‘TV Dial’ watch in steel with an automatic movement, the Timex 1983 E-Line Reissue is a combination of style and accessibility. ]]>

Timex Automatic 1983 E-Line Reissue

While neo-vintage watches are killing it at auction, neo-retro designs are proving just as popular when it comes to new releases. Neo-retro designs are essentially those inspired by the 1980s – early 00s, like the new Timex Automatic 1983 E-Line Reissue. It’s Timex’s first automatic reissue watch (previously they’ve done a lot of quartz reissues) and it drips with cool 80s funk.

It’s fairly small, measuring just 34mm x 12mm in steel, which is in keeping with its retro styling. The rounded square shape is nicknamed a ‘TV Dial’, due to its similarity to the shape of a television from the 1980s, the period when Timex created the original watch that inspired this reissue. It’s paired with a sleek, single-link, expandable bracelet nestled inside the wide, flat lugs. In fact, the style of the lugs is very similar to other popular 1980s designs like the Tissot PRX that was released a few years prior.

Timex Automatic 1983 E-Line Reissue
Timex Automatic 1983 E-Line Reissue

Moving to the dial, it’s worth noting that there are a few alternative colourways. There’s a golden edition and a turquoise version however those aren’t ‘Reissue’ models. The name Timex Automatic 1983 E-Line Reissue specifically applies to the silver dial option with vertical brushed finishing. The silver tone means that depending on how the light strikes the watch it can look bright white due to its reflective qualities.

The display itself is very minimalist with gently facetted bathtub hour markers and similarly shaped hands. There’s a date aperture at 3 o’clock and the dial is inscribed with ‘Timex Automatic’ and ‘Water Resistant’. Although while the little wave motif might make you think it’s suitable for the pool, the water resistance rating is only 50m, so it’s more suited to surviving a spilled poolside cocktail rather than being in the water itself.

Timex Automatic 1983 E-Line Reissue

Inside, the watch houses the Japanese Miyota 8215 automatic. It’s a well-respected workhorse movement with a 42-hour power reserve and -20 / +40 seconds per day. Admittedly those aren’t exactly stellar specs but that’s offset by its accessibility and ease of repair (even the smallest service centre likely sees more than their fair share of them). Plus, let’s not forget the simple fact that this is an automatic movement when Timex have done tons of quartz reissues, making it quite special.

Timex Automatic 1983 E-Line Reissue

The Timex Automatic 1983 E-Line Reissue is priced at just £190, which makes it a fantastic value proposition. The combination of a cool 80s style, an automatic movement and steel construction for less than £200 is nothing to be sniffed at. Frankly it’s an insane price.

Price and Specs:

Model: Timex Automatic 1983 E-Line Reissue
Ref: TW2W70800
Case: 34mm diameter x 12mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Silver-tone
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 8215, automatic, 21 jewels
Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 60h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £190

More details at Timex.

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Yema Launch Hand-Finished Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition and New Core Collection https://oracleoftime.com/yema-wristmaster-slim-cmm-20/ https://oracleoftime.com/yema-wristmaster-slim-cmm-20/#comments Fri, 29 Nov 2024 12:26:10 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=200210 Yema’s integrated bracelet sports watch returns in a cool core collection alongside a stealthy and intricately textured limited edition. ]]>

Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM 20 Limited Edition

Back in 2022 Yema revealed their new Manufacture Morteau CMM.20 movement in a limited edition Wristmaster collection. It marked the beginning of a new era for the French brand, going from strength to strength in terms of quality, design, style and in-house manufacturing. A few years later and the Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 is back for good in a permanent collection alongside an additional (and seriously cool) limited edition.

Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition

Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM 20 Limited Edition

Off the bat, the Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition looks amazing. It has a unique finish that gives it a cool degraded appearance, achieved by hand brushing the dial, bezel, case, bracelet and even the movement in a particularly abrasive and random style, creating a vivid texture to the piece. Then, a black PVD coating is applied over the top for that stealth appearance.

The lines in the metal look like the delicate strokes of a brush through paint – it almost reminds me of the signature painterly style of French animation studio Fortiche, the team behind recent hit show Arcane (100% on Rotten Tomato). Due to the hand finishing, no two watches are identical, making each one an exclusive timepiece even within the broader limited edition of 200 pieces.

Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM 20 Limited Edition

Moving to dimensions, the Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition measures 39mm x 9mm with an octagonal design and integrated bracelet. It makes for a versatile daily wearer, especially when it comes to the non-limited versions we’ll look at shortly. The bracelet also has a nice taper to it for enhanced comfort.

Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM 20 Limited Edition

One of the most mesmerising aspects of this watch is the movement, visible through the exhibition caseback. Not only does it have the same finishing as the rest of the watch but also it’s a fine piece of horology. It’s equipped with a micro-rotor that helps to supply the watch with a 70-hour power reserve, ensuring it keeps ticking along with its accuracy -3/+7 seconds per day. Importantly it’s also manufactured and assembled in Yema’s Morteau workshop in France.

It’s priced at £1,858 so I expect it to absolutely fly off the shelves. One of the most distinctive and unusual watches I’ve ever seen Yema produce.

Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Core Collection

Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM 20

In addition to the limited edition above, Yema have released a standard, non-limited collection of Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 watches. They have exactly the same dimensions however there’s no PVD coating here, leaving bare steel for the case, bracelet and movement and exposing the uniform, vertical brushed finishing. On top of that, there’s some alternative polished finishing on display around the edge of the signature bezel.

Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM 20
Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM 20

As for the dial, it has a striped texture that varies in thickness to represent the natural shapes of waves or sand. It’s available in a choice of three colours, blue, champagne (officially it’s called grey but come on, this is France, and it doesn’t really look grey anyway) and a golden yellow. Of the three I prefer the sporty appearance of the blue edition although the others are enjoyable too. Really I think these three will be a much larger success than the limited edition simply by dint of the fact that more people will be able to purchase them.

Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM 20
Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM 20
Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM 20

They’re also a bit more accessible at a price of £1,699, which is a solid price given the high specs of the CMM.20 movement. Am I mad for thinking that Yema have been one of the most impressive brands of 2024?

Price and Specs:

Model: Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20
Ref: IW395601
Case: 39mm diameter x 9mm thickness, stainless steel with or without hand-brushed PVD finish
Dial: Hand-brushed PVD or textured striped
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Yema calibre Manufacture Morteau 20, automatic, micro-rotor, 33 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with hand-brushed PVD finish
Price: £1,858 (PVD, limited to 200 pieces), £1,699 (steel)

More details at Yema.

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Richard Mille Announce Final Ever RM 032, the Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition https://oracleoftime.com/richard-mille-rm-032-automatic-flyback-chronograph-ultimate-edition/ https://oracleoftime.com/richard-mille-rm-032-automatic-flyback-chronograph-ultimate-edition/#respond Thu, 28 Nov 2024 11:51:03 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=200107 The Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition is a tool watch swan song. ]]>

Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition

Richard Mille is bidding adieu to one of their core models this year with the launch of the final ever RM 032 in the form of the Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition. The RM 032 was first introduced back in 2011, so it’s retirement over a decade later is well deserved, though still sad. It’s Richard Mille’s one and only dedicated diving watch with a circular case, really making it stand out in a sea of tonneau sports watches. Let’s take a look at this final swan song.

Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition
Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition

In order to live up to the moniker of being the RM 032 Ultimate Edition, Richard Mille have made it a serious tool watch produced using high tech materials. Gone are the fun and frivolous colours of previous editions such as the Les Voiles de Saint Barth. Instead, the 50mm diameter case is black, made from a combination of DLC coated titanium and carbon TPT composite. There’s still some colour on display via the yellow accents on the crown and pushers but it’s purely functional, highlighting the key mechanical components you need to interact with.

Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition

The same is true of the dial. The skeletonised bridges are black in order to provide a contrast to the coloured display elements and making them more legible. Very important given how crowded with information this display is. Starting from the periphery and working inwards you have a tachymeter scale, 60-minute scale, 60-seconds scale, 12-hour scale, months indicator between 4 and 5 o’clock, running indicator at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, date below 12 o’clock. And finally, the central hand stack which includes hours, minutes, chronograph minutes and chronograph seconds. The month and date functions are also an annual calendar, meaning they automatically account for months with 30 and 31 days, only needing adjustment at the end of February.

Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition

Evidently Richard Mille never got the memo that dive watches are supposed to have clean, legible dials. Still, it hasn’t stopped the series from being a success for more than a decade so evidently, they got something right. For example the diving specs are actually solid with 300m water resistance and a locking crown that prevents accidental adjustment while underwater.

Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition

At the same time, it also locks the chronograph pushers so that the chrono doesn’t get started or stopped by the build-up of water pressure. Another diving consideration is that without a regular seconds indicator. It can be tricky to see at a glance if the watch is operating properly in dark conditions, which is what the running indicator at 3 o’clock is for, a simple, lumed rotating disk that shows the movement is functioning.

Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition

Powering the RM 032 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition is the calibre RMAC2. It’s an automatic movement with a 55-hour power reserve and operating at a 4 Hz frequency. The combination of a complex movement like this with a tool watch works well. Yes, the case is massive and the design doesn’t adhere to traditional notions of dive watches, but those aspects are what makes it feel like a Richard Mille. It shows that when RM tackle a specific concept, they can execute on it really well. I think that’s what I will miss most when the RM 032 eventually disappears from their current range – the remaining watches will feel less specialised and more homogenous.

Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition

If you want to pick up the RM 032 Ultimate Edition, good luck. It’s a limited edition of 80 pieces and is price on request. The majority of RM 032s retail in the region of £80,000 – £250,000.

Price and Specs:

Model: Richard Mille RM 032 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Ultimate Edition
Ref: RM 032
Case: 39.15mm diameter x 15.1mm thickness, tripartite case with grade 5 titanium fixed bezel, black DLC grade 5 titanium rotating bezel, carbon TPT upper bezels
Dial: Skeletonised
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: RM calibre RMAC2, automatic, 62 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 50h
Functions: Hours, minutes, date, month, chronograph, running indicator
Strap: Black rubber with additonal yellow rubber
Price: Price on request, limited to 80 pieces

More details at Richard Mille.

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green Watch Review https://oracleoftime.com/girard-perregaux-laureato-38mm-sage-green-watch-review/ https://oracleoftime.com/girard-perregaux-laureato-38mm-sage-green-watch-review/#respond Tue, 26 Nov 2024 09:00:00 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=199941 Hands-on with the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green, a smaller, steel edition in a calming shade of green. ]]>

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green

The 1970s was a turbulent period in the history of the watch industry. It saw the advent of the quartz crisis that decimated the industry but also, by the end of the decade, became a golden era of integrated bracelet, steel sports watch design. Gerald Genta was at his prime with the Royal Oak, Nautilus and Ingenieur. But he by no means had the monopoly on this style of watch. It was in this atmosphere that the original Girard-Perregaux Laureato designed by Adolfo Natalini came to be. The legacy of which can be seen in the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green

Holding the watch up to the light, it’s easy to admire the flawless finishing across the steel case and bracelet. While integrated designs like this are now common to find in any material, steel is the OG. The practical nature of the metal, with its scratch resistance and anti-corrosion properties, makes it the ideal material for the bold shapes and facetted angles of this style of watch. The Laureato in particular makes great use of this in its octagonal bezel and the alternating brushed and polished finishing found across its design.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green

Strapping the watch on, it’s presented at a diameter of 38mm, which is the mid-range size nestled between GP’s 34mm and 42mm offerings. It’s a really, really nice size (it’s very thin too, with a thickness of just 10.02mm). It’s not so large as to compromise wearability but at the same time sacrificing no amount of wrist presence compared to the larger cousins. Of course, a key part in drawing people’s eye towards your wrist is the dial, which is where the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green really excels.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green

Girard-Perregaux first dabbled in sage green dials earlier this year with the launch of a 42mm edition in rose gold but for my money the colour works much better here, paired with the colder tone of the steel. Look up even the most basic aesthetic design guide to sage green and you’ll quickly learn that it pairs best with neutral tones like cream and beige and the cool silver of steel adheres to that philosophy much better than rich gold. Although gold isn’t fully absent as its present via the seconds hand and the GP logo that replaces the 12 o’clock numeral.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green

The pattern of the dial is a Laureato signature, Clous de Paris, a hobnail style of guilloché with a repeating motif of small pyramid shapes. It almost seems to trap light, reflecting off the many micro-surfaces, occasionally creating glimpses of a more intense green where it can otherwise appear quite grey a majority of the time.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green

Undoing the butterfly clasp and slipping the watch off lets you take a look at the exhibition caseback. It reveals the GP03300-2476 automatic movement housed inside, which just like the case is finished immaculately, including the pink gold rotor. It sports a 46-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 4 Hz. In terms of functions, it’s a classic time and date model with hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green

It’s priced at £12,700, which is not an inconsiderable amount, highlighting the other, less used moniker of integrated bracelet sports watches, Sports-Luxe. However, considering that this watch was created following requests from GP’s own fanbase for a smaller, steel sage green edition, I’m sure there will be plenty of appetite for it. Alongside this model, GP have released a second version in Midnight Blue, which will likely be just as anticipated, though I personally prefer the green.

Price and Specs:

Model: Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Sage Green
Ref: 81005-11-3407-1CM
Case: 38mm diameter x 10.02mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Sage green Cloud de Paris
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Girard-Perregaux calibre GP03300-2476, automatic, 27 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 46h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £12,700

More details at Girard-Perregaux.

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Own a Piece of Tennis Legacy with Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic https://oracleoftime.com/own-a-piece-of-tennis-legacy-with-hublot-big-bang-unico-novak-djokovic/ https://oracleoftime.com/own-a-piece-of-tennis-legacy-with-hublot-big-bang-unico-novak-djokovic/#respond Wed, 20 Nov 2024 19:00:00 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=199723 With a case made from a composite of Djokovic’s genuine rackets and shirts, this is the Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic.]]>

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

Novak Djokovic is one of the biggest enigmas in all of sports. On a sheer performance level, the man is insane. He has won 24 grand slams and recently completed the Golden Slam by adding an Olympic gold medal to his trophy cabinet, which only four other players have done before. Off the court he’s an enigma as well, tennis’ controversial bad boy who can’t help but claim the adoration of crowds with his play. And now you can actually own part of his tennis legacy with the Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic which is made from his recycled rackets and gear.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic
Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

That’s right, the case of this watch is made from a composite material crafted from 25 of Djokovic’s HEAD rackets as well as 17 dark blue and 15 light blue Lacoste polo shirts. This material is combined with an Epoxy resin reinforced with quartz powder and glass veil for an ultra-durable and lightweight design. You can see the flecks of textile material inside the case along with the carbon from the rackets, giving the piece an intriguing and unusual camouflage pattern.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

On top of the composite case, Hublot also changed its approach to the glass in order to further enhance the watch’s lightweight properties. Instead of a traditional sapphire crystal, the Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic uses tempered Gorilla Glass, which is half the weight of its crystal alternative. An unusual choice but one that reflects Hublot’s willingness to explore modern innovations. Depending on the strap it’s presented on, the watch can weigh as little as 49.5g.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

Below that glass is the watch’s openworked chronograph display. It’s presented in a light blue colour that matches the overall tone of the case. In keeping with the tennis theme, the chronograph elements of the watch feature accents in tennis ball yellow, including the chronograph pusher at 2 o’clock. A further tennis treat is the use of Djokovic’s personal logo as the chronograph seconds’ counterweight (also found on the movement’s rotor).

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

The movement that’s on display via the openworked portions of the dial and exhibition caseback is the HUB 1280 Unico automatic chronograph. It has a really solid 72-hour power reserve so you can put it down on Friday evening and it will still be ticking on Monday morning. Looking at the caseback you’ll also notice that the Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is a limited edition of 100 pieces, which makes sense otherwise Djokovic wouldn’t have any clothes left.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic

I know that Hublot designs can often be divisive due to their bold, unapologetic appearance but here I think that works really well. It’s as bold and unapologetic as the man himself. Not to mention that it offers the opportunity to own some genuine tennis heritage. Of course, such legacy doesn’t come cheap with the watch priced at £45,300.

Price and Specs:

Model: Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic
Ref: 441.QKB.5120.NR.DJO24
Case: 42mm diameter x 14.5mm thickness, matte blue recycled composite
Dial: Matte sky blue
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Hublot calibre Unico HUB1280, automatic, 43 jewels, 354 parts
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph
Strap: Tennis wristband, blue elastic, blue velcro and white rubber
Price: £45,300, limited to 100 pieces

More details at Hublot.

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King Seiko Expand KSK 6L Collection with Ukiyo-e Dials https://oracleoftime.com/king-seiko-expand-ksk-6l-collection-with-ukiyo-e-dials/ https://oracleoftime.com/king-seiko-expand-ksk-6l-collection-with-ukiyo-e-dials/#comments Tue, 10 Sep 2024 07:00:00 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=195432 Violet, blue and red editions of the King Seiko KSK 6L with Ukiyo-e inspired textures and patterns. ]]>

Seiko King Seiko KSK 6L Ukiyo-e Collection

While it’s far from being as populous as the Prospex or Presage ranges, Seiko’s King Seiko line is now pretty substantial. With the addition of this latest trio there are now more than 20 references in the collection, a far cry from the single re-issue that started this landslide in 2020. The new releases are an expansion of the KSK 6L slimline series with fresh dials inspired by traditional Japanese Ukiyo-e designs.

Ukiyo-e is a form of woodblock print art, the most famous example of which is probably The Great Wave off Kanagawa by Hokusai. Each of the three watches has a unique print pattern across its dial. The first of them is the Garyu-Bai Red edition, which has a rich red colour and a five-petal flower motif. Second is Tenjin-Fuji Violet, a pale purple version with a vine pattern. Last is Kameido Blue, which has a tessellating hexagon pattern inspired by the shell of a tortoise.

Seiko King Seiko KSK 6L collection Kameido Blu SJE105

All three versions have gentle fumé gradients with the colours starting light in the centre and getting darker around the periphery with a slight smoky effect. It helps to emphasise the Ukiyo-e patterns and also highlights the sharp facets of the baton hour markers and dauphine hands. All of which are held beneath a box sapphire glass that provides a retro slant to the design.

Seiko King Seiko KSK 6L collection Tenjin-Fuji Violet SJE107

The case measures 38.6mm in diameter with a thickness of 10.7mm. That makes the watches pretty svelte and slender despite the relatively broad design of the facetted lugs. In terms of finishing, there’s the usual mix of brushed and polished surfaces, which is particularly noticeable around the thin bezel.

Seiko King Seiko KSK 6L collection Garyu-Bai Red SJE103

What enables the KSK 6L Ukiyo-e series to have such dimensions is the 6L35 movement housed inside. It’s a super slim calibre with a 3.7mm thickness, operating at 28,800vph with an accuracy of +15/-10 seconds per day and a 45-hour power reserve. It’s one of Seiko’s top-grade movements, which does contribute to a fairly high price for the watches compared to the rest of Seiko’s offerings.

Seiko King Seiko KSK 6L collection Kameido Blu SJE105
Seiko King Seiko KSK 6L collection Tenjin-Fuji Violet SJE107
Seiko King Seiko KSK 6L collection Garyu-Bai Red SJE103

Specifically, the three watches are all priced at £2,930. That’s very close to the £3,000 Kiku limited edition, which makes sense because that is also a 6L edition with a textured dial. Of the three KSK 6L Ukiyo-e watches, the Kameido Blue is my initial stand out favourite, although the more I look at the Tenjin-Fuji Violet, the more it grows on me – like the vines on its dial.

Price and Specs:

Model: Seiko King Seiko KSK 6L 'Ukiyo-e'
Ref: SJE105 (blue), SJE107 (lilac), SJE103 (red)
Case: 38.6mm diameter x 10.7mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Ukiyo-e art inspired by nature found in Kameido
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre 6L35, automatic, 26 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 45h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £2,930

More details at Seiko Boutique.

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Grand Seiko Go Glacier Crazy with ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat https://oracleoftime.com/grand-seiko-icefall-hi-beat/ https://oracleoftime.com/grand-seiko-icefall-hi-beat/#respond Mon, 02 Sep 2024 02:00:00 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=194857 Inspired by the glacial phenomenon of icefalls, this is the wintery Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat.]]>

Grand Seiko 'Icefall' Hi-Beat

Grand Seiko continue to find new aspects of nature to inspire their textured dials. Although I imagine there is plenty to be inspired by when Japanese culture respects 72 micro seasons each year, fleeting moments of time such as the “hiding of the cherry blossom”. While it’s not linked to a specific micro season, the latest Grand Seiko is still connected to an ephemeral phenomenon in nature, the icefall. As such, the new watch is called the ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat.

Grand Seiko 'Icefall' Hi-Beat

Despite the name, an icefall is not a waterfall that has become frozen during the winter months, although you could probably still use that term if you wanted. The geological definition of an icefall is a rapidly moving portion of a glacier that creates a high quantity of crevasses in its surface. This is a fairly standard occurrence on the flanks of Mount Iwate near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi studio.

Grand Seiko 'Icefall' Hi-Beat

It finds itself expressed on the dial of the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat via a vertical striation pattern that echoes the crevassed surface of the glacier as it moves in a linear direction down the valley. Naturally it’s presented in ice blue because, well, that’s the colour of ice. Personally, I think the texture is a little bit too regular for a glacier’s surface and it is actually a better representation of a frozen waterfall. But as I mentioned, it kind of represents both of these adjacent concepts in a colloquial way, so ultimately it works really well.

Grand Seiko 'Icefall' Hi-Beat

The dial is held in a 37mm steel case with a thickness of 13.3mm, which is totally in keeping with the prevailing interest in vintage proportions. It also features Grand Seiko’s classic array of finishing including Zaratsu polishing and brushing. The shape is based on the heritage collection with sweeping lines from lug to lug and gentler facets than some of the more extreme GS designs.

Powering the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat is, as you may have been able to predict, a hi-beat movement. Specifically, it’s the 9S85, which has a power reserve of 55-hours and an accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day. It operates at a bph of 36,000, which is equivalent to 5 Hz. It’s visible though the sapphire exhibition caseback.

Grand Seiko 'Icefall' Hi-Beat

It’s priced at £5,950, which is a pretty standard price for Grand Seiko these days. It goes without saying that the dial is lovely and the movement has impressive specs. Are Grand Seiko one of the best value for money luxury watch brands?

Price and Specs:

Model: Grand Seiko 'Icefall' Hi-Beat
Ref: SBGH347
Case: 37mm diameter x 13.3mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Ice blue inspired by the icefall on Mount Iwate
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Grand Seiko calibre 9S85, automatic, 37 jewels
Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 55h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £5,950

More details at Grand Seiko Boutique.

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Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition Watch Review https://oracleoftime.com/oris-divers-sixty-five-lfp-limited-edition-watch-review/ https://oracleoftime.com/oris-divers-sixty-five-lfp-limited-edition-watch-review/#respond Thu, 29 Aug 2024 08:00:00 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=193966 A fun new dial for the Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition that combines sports, charity and a playful approach to an Oris staple.]]>

Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition

Hublot loves football and, if they had their way, would be the first and last name in the sport. Sure, the pond might be big, but so, very literally is a Big Bang. No matter what they try however, they haven’t stopped other watchmakers encroaching on their territory, especially outside of the Premier League and World Cup. Case in point, Oris, who after cracking cricket have partnered with the Ligue de Football Professionnel (I shouldn’t need to tell you that is France’s professional football league) to create the Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition.

If you were expecting a relatively standard palette-swapped Divers Sixty-Five using the LFP’s navy blue livery then you’d be… mostly right. Let’s not beat too much around the bush, that’s precisely what Oris has done here. And sure, it’s a handsome enough dial – I’d actually really like it on a standard, non-limited Divers Sixty-Five, but this is a limited edition. If all they’d changed was the dial colour I probably wouldn’t bother talking about it.

Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition

But, you see, this isn’t just a sports partnership; it’s also a charity one. The LFP has their own charity partner, the National Convention of Child Protection Associations, or CNAPE using the French acronym. Again, I don’t think I really need to explain what they are or what they do, but suffice it to say that it’s supremely valuable work. And it’s from them that we get the elements that really set this funky little Oris apart.

First, look at that logo. If the opening chords of ‘I’ll Be There for You’ didn’t start ringing through your head, you’re a better person than I. It’s meant to, in the words of Oris, ‘capture the innocence of a child’s handwriting’, but with the rainbow lettering underneath it’s just too ‘Friends’ to ignore. Plus, I know the filth that I was writing when I was younger was anything but innocent.

Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition

Still, if you can look past the Central Perk-ness of it all, it’s actually a fun little twist on Oris branding that I genuinely do like. The typography and colour combined turn what is otherwise a very standard Divers 65 dial – hell, more pared-back than some – into a fun, funky face. And who knows? Perhaps I’m the only one seeing the Friends connection. I doubt it, but maybe. Oh and the same script is used on all lettering on the dial, it’s just much harder to tell at the smaller scale on the lower half of the dial.

The thematic dial of course means an equally thematic caseback. In this case (back), that takes the form of script saying ‘Les Defenseurs de l’Enfance’, or Children’s Advocates in proper language. It’s a not-so-subtle allusion to what CNAPE do – act on behalf of and in defence of children.

Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition
Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition

In short, this watch combines two often very different types of partnerships into one watch and I’m here for it. It feels like much more of a CNAPE watch than an LFP edition, and as I care more about charity than sport, that’s fine by me.

As for the watch itself, if you’ve ever tried on a Divers Sixty-Five – and by now you most certainly should have – you’ll know what to expect. The smaller-than-usual 38mm sizing is perfectly retro, something that Oris were into before it was cool, and the tone-on-tone bezel is lovely, taken straight from the recent calibre 400 Divers Sixty-Five models.  Here they’ve kept that bezel as streamlined as possible in the same steel as the case and bracelet, with the diving scale in relief. It’s not as practically readable as other, more serious diving bezels, but on a watch with 100m water resistance – i.e. one more akin to a desk diver than a professional instrument – that’s to be expected.

Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition

On the wrist it’s, for me, perfect. The bracelet’s pretty basic but well-made and the 38mm sizing sits comfortably on my wrists. The bezel is satisfying to use and the crown’s simple enough to wind and set with. Like I said, it’s a Divers Sixty-Five; it’s ground that’s been covered before, all to the positive.

The movement’s pretty old hat too. Despite sharing a bezel with the Calibre 400 models, the LFP edition instead houses the calibre 733 with a 41-hour power reserve. I really wish Oris would put their superb calibre 400 into everything they can, but as numbers for that movement are still relatively limited, sometimes we just need to make do with what we can. It’s a shame, but it does mean that the 1,000-piece limited edition is more accessible than it would be with the newer movement inside.

Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition

That price, as we’re on it, is £2,150, which is around £50 more than other steel Divers Sixty-Five models on a bracelet. I’d most definitely pay that extra for this kind of fun dial. It’s unclear whether proceeds from the watch sales itself will actually go to CNAPE – which with 1,000 of them is quite a lot of potential cash – but they are at least raffling off 10 of them to raise money, so keep an eye out for those if you fancy trying to get your hands on an (almost) free watch. Either way, great limited edition for an even better cause.

Price and Specs:

Model: Oris Divers Sixty-Five LFP Limited Edition
Case: 38mm diameter, stainless steel
Dial: Blue with multi coloured detailing
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Oris calibre 733, automatic, 26 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 41h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £2,150, limited to 1,000 pieces

More details at Oris.

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Carl Suchy & Söhne Explore New Colours with Belvedere Champagne and Bordeaux https://oracleoftime.com/carl-suchy-and-sohne-belvedere-champagne-and-bordeaux/ https://oracleoftime.com/carl-suchy-and-sohne-belvedere-champagne-and-bordeaux/#respond Wed, 28 Aug 2024 10:03:41 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=194405 With colours named after famous wine regions, these are the Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Champagne and Bordeaux.]]>

Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere

While Carl Suchy & Söhne are an Austrian brand who typically find inspiration in Vienna, their latest releases are named after two of the most popular wine regions in France. They’re the Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Champagne and Bordeaux. Technically they’re named after the colours which just happen to be named after the wine regions, but it’s an interesting coincidence, nonetheless.

Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Bordeaux
Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Bordeaux

The Belvedere collection was released in 2023 as a sporty alternative to the brand’s typical refinement and elegance. Although, despite that sporty character, it retains the characteristic alternating stripe motif that’s something of a signature. For the 2024 additions, the core structure of the Belvedere has been retained with a 40.8mm diameter in steel, broad, flat bezel and integrated strap.

Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Champagne

As I hinted to in the introduction, it’s the colours of the dials and straps that make these watches stand out from the original editions. The first is champagne, which is a lovely off-white, cream tone that really suits the intricate design of the dial. It’s much warmer than the stark white edition which almost seems sterile in comparison.

Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Champagne

Second is the Bordeaux, which is a rich wine-red tone. As a completely unrelated side note, this is the colour I imagine when Homer notes the ‘wine dark sea’ in the Odyssey, although I understand that that description comes more from the artefacts of translation and also archaic languages and cultures not having comparable terminology to contemporary English than it does the actual colour of the sea. Bringing us back to the watch world, the tone is reminiscent of the Fears x Christopher Ward Alliance 01 watch, which also looks great.

Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Bordeaux
Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Champagne

Powering both the Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Champagne and Belvedere Bordeaux is the CSS201, an automatic movement based on a Dubois Dépraz calibre. It has a 42-hour power reserve which is the new baseline these days now that sub-40 reserves are starting to go the way of the dodo. It’s the same movement as used in the originals, which is also why the new duo have the same price at €7,900 (approx. £6,660).

Price and Specs:

Model: Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere
Case: 40.8mm diameter x 12.2mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: Bordeaux or champagne
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Carl Suchy & Sohne calibre CSS201 (based on Dubois Dépraz DD90010), automatic, 21 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Bordeaux or champagne rubber with quick release spring bars and deployant clasp
Price: €7,900 (approx. £6,660)

More details at Carl Suchy & Söhne.

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Omega Unveil Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup for 37th Edition of Iconic Race https://oracleoftime.com/omega-seamaster-diver-300m-americas-cup/ https://oracleoftime.com/omega-seamaster-diver-300m-americas-cup/#respond Fri, 16 Aug 2024 11:14:49 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=193784 A cool steel Seamaster Diver 300M adapted for the America’s Cup boat race, which kicks off this week.]]>

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m America's Cup

Following the conclusion of the Paris Olympics, which saw more than a few athletes wearing Omega watches, Omega’s sport timing duties are called upon again immediately. This time though it’s not for athletics but the prestigious America’s Cup, the oldest international sailing competition in the world. Now in its 37th edition, Omega are celebrating the race with the launch of a new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup edition.

Measuring 42mm in diameter with a steel construction and 300m water resistance, it’s robust and rugged enough to withstand the rigours of life aboard a racing boat. It also features a regatta timer scale on its unidirectional rotating bezel, providing a 10-minute countdown to the start of race. If you’re unfamiliar with how sailing races work, the combination of waves and wind makes a static start virtually impossible. As such, boats will move around behind the starting line ahead of an agreed start time, aiming to cross the line exactly as the race officially starts for the biggest advantage.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m America's Cup

In terms of colour, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M America’s Cup is presented with a white, laser-engraved ceramic wave dial with blue accents and a blue-red gradient minute hand. These are the signature colours of the event, making them thematically appropriate while also creating a hyper legible display for sailors who need to read the time with a split-second glance. A further thematic detail on the dial is the trophy-shaped counterweight on the seconds hand.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m America's Cup
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m America's Cup

Powering this watch is a 145m2 sail. Wait, no, that’s what powers the boats in the race. Actually powering the watch is the master chronometer movement Omega 8806, a co-axial calibre with 55-hour power reserve. You can view it through the sapphire exhibition caseback, which is itself finished with the America’s Cup logo.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m America's Cup
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m America's Cup

Priced at £5,800 on rubber strap or £6,100 on steel bracelet, it’s among the more accessible Seamaster Diver 300Ms in the range. Which makes sense because it’s effectively a special edition of the standard steel Diver 300M. It definitely has a nautical flair to it that makes me want to head to the nearest harbour and get out on the waves.

Price and Specs:

Model: Omega Seamaster Diver 300m America's Cup
Ref: 210.32.42.20.04.002 (rubber strap), 210.30.42.20.04.002 (stainless steel bracelet)
Case: 42mm diameter x 13.8mm thickness, stainless steel
Dial: White
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Omega calibre 8806, automatic, 35 jewels
Frequency: 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 55h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Blue rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet
Price: £5,800 (rubber strap), £6,100 (stainless steel bracelet)

More details at Omega.

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The Best Watches Spotted at the Paris Olympics 2024 https://oracleoftime.com/best-watches-paris-olympic-games-2024/ https://oracleoftime.com/best-watches-paris-olympic-games-2024/#respond Mon, 12 Aug 2024 11:29:12 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=193315 A look at some of the coolest watches worn by athletes and spectators at the Paris Olympics 2024.]]>
Rafael Nadal Richard Mille RM27-05 Flying Tourbillon

Image credit: @rafaelnadal

The Paris Olympics, which came to a close last night, has been a fantastic festival of sporting achievement and amazing storylines that have seen the world glued to their screens or attending the stadiums in person. As always, while we were rapt as the likes of Noah Lyles and Keely Hodgkinson proved their supremacy, we also had one eye on the wrists of the great and good in attendance to spot their wristwatches. So here are the epic wristwatch moments from the Paris Olympics 2024.

Athletics

Noah Lyles – Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon

Noah Lyles Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon

Image credit: @nojo18

In one of the fastest and closest 100m races in recent history, Noah Lyles proved himself the fastest. During the race he wore the Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon featuring Apollo 8, making us wonder if he has rockets in his heels as well as on his wrist.

Keely Hodgkinson – Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”

Keely Hodgkinson Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light

Image credit: @britishathletics

One of the biggest success stories of the Athletics for team GB, Keely Hodgkinson ran to gold in the 800m. On her wrist was the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”, weighing just 55g.

Yaroslava Mahuchikh – Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”

Yaroslava Mahuchikh Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light

Image credit: @europeanathletics

If Omega’s dominance at the athletics were ever in doubt, Yaroslava Mahuchikh the high jump world record holder was also wearing the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”, evidently a popular timepiece among Omega’s sporting ambassadors.

Armand Duplantis – Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” Special Edition

Armand Duplantis Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” Special Edition

Image credit: @omegawatches

While Omega debuted an Armand Duplantis special edition ahead of the games, he showed up to the Pole Vault final with a completely different watch. Winning the gold and a world record wearing a Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” Special Edition in Swedish colours.

Tennis 

Novak Djokovic – Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic

Novak Djokovic Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic

Image credit: @djokernole

After a few years searching for a watch partnership, Novak Djokovic eventually found one in Hublot. He was wearing the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic as he celebrated his gold medal, the final major trophy that had so far eluded him in his career.

Rafael Nadal – Richard Mille RM27-05 Flying Tourbillon

Rafael Nadal Richard Mille RM27-05 Flying Tourbillon

Image credit: @rafaelnadal

While Rafa’s performance on the courts of Roland Garros didn’t quite go to plan, he was resplendent in his role in the opening ceremony. As one of the most famous Richard Mille ambassadors, he wore the RM27-05 Flying Tourbillon throughout the event,

Carlos Alcaraz Garcia – Rolex Day-Date 40

Carlos Alcaraz Garcia Rolex Day-Date 40

Image credit: @carlitosalcarazz

The most recent Wimbledon Champion could only achieve silver at Paris 2024, but still celebrated the achievement with a Rolex Day-Date 40 in yellow gold on the podium – he probably wishes his medal was the same colour.

Skateboarding

Sky Brown – Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

Sky Brown Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

Image credit: @skybrown

As a Tag Heuer ambassador, Sky Brown, the 16-year-old skater for Team GB, has worn her Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph on several occasions now. And now it has accompanied her on her journey to back-to-back Olympic bronze medals.

Andy MacDonald –A Stealthy Street Cool Sports Watch

Andy MacDonald Paris Olympics 2024

Image credit: @skateboardgb

At 51, Andy MacDonald was the oldest competitor in the skating representing GB, a true legend of skating. Hel us identify his watch by leave a comment at the bottom of this article. It’s a street cool timepiece with a black case and white Arabic numerals in the style of a pilot’s watch. It reminds me of the Seiko 5 Sports Stealth, IWC Pilot’s Watch Top Gun or Zenith Pilot but unfortunately the colours and logos don’t match.

Tony Hawk – Waldhoff Capital Carbon Silver

Tony Hawk Waldhoff Capital Carbon Silver

Image credit: @tonyhawk

Tony Hawk is well known for wearing the Waldhoff Capital Carbon Silver. He was attending the skating as a spectator to see his long time friend Andy MacDonald compete, as well as filming the introduction to the sport short video for the Paris games.

Fencing

Miles Chamley-Watson – Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph

Miles Chamley-Watson Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph

Image credit: @fencer

While the name of American fencer Miles Chamley-Watson might not be well known in the UK, the fact that he wore a Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph worth approximately £300,000 while swinging a sword is frankly insane.

Golf

Tommy Fleetwood – Tag Heuer Connected

Tommy Fleetwood Tag Heuer Connected

Image credit: @officialtommyfleetwood

Our friend here at OT magazine stuck to his preferred timepiece, the TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition. Its additional digital features provide useful information for his games.

Spectating

Daniel Craig – Unreleased Seamaster 300m with No-Date

Daniel Craig Paris Olympics 2024 Omega No-Date Seamaster 300M
Daniel Craig Paris Olympics 2024 Omega No-Date Seamaster 300M

Image credit: Omega Watches

Daniel Craig was seen in attendance of several events wearing an unreleased Omega Seamaster Dive 300m with a dateless design. Rumours online suggest it may have a ceramic bezel but Omega have announced detail will be released in due course.

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Omega Celebrate Armand Duplantis World Record with Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” Special Edition https://oracleoftime.com/omega-seamaster-aqua-terra-ultra-light-150m-armand-duplantis/ https://oracleoftime.com/omega-seamaster-aqua-terra-ultra-light-150m-armand-duplantis/#respond Wed, 07 Aug 2024 13:02:23 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=193137 A Swedish special edition of the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” 150m for superstar pole vaulter Armand Duplantis.]]>

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 'Ultra Light' Armand Duplantis

If you’ve been watching the Olympics and in particular the athletics, then you’ve probably seen a higher density of Omega wristwatches than are normally found even on the red carpet. Athletes from all across the world have been wearing watches from the Games’ official timekeeper while competing – of note for us Brits, Keely Hodgkinson wore the Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” while winning her 800m gold. However, one Swedish athlete took things further as Omega debuted a new watch on his wrist, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” 150m for Armand Duplantis. Which is the second Duplantis Aqua Terra this year!

Duplantis is the greatest pole vaulter in the world, cruising to victory in the finals on Monday evening before pushing further to set a new Olympic and world record in the sport. However, for the watch world, the more interesting part of his jumps was the mystery watch on his wrist. Now revealed to be a 41mm, sand-blasted Gamma Titanium take on the Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” 150m in the colours of Sweden.

Armand Duplantis

It features a blue dial with the signature teak pattern engraving accented by a bright yellow seconds hand. The seconds hand is completely cylindrical with a white tip as an homage to the poles used by Duplantis. A fun and thematic element to the design, which something Omega have been doing more often lately such as with the rocket-shaped hand of the Speedmaster Apollo 8.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 'Ultra Light' Armand Duplantis
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 'Ultra Light' Armand Duplantis

Completing the Swedish look of the piece, it’s presented on an integrated rubber strap in the signature colours of the country’s flag. Its definitely the aspect most likely to divide potential buyers but you have to admit that paired with Duplantis’ athletic gear, it looks great. Speaking of things that look great, the exhibition caseback reveals the OMEGA 8928 Ti calibre with manual winding and 72-hour power reserve. Considering it withstood the forces that rocketed Duplantis up to 6.25m and back down again, it’s very robust.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 'Ultra Light' Armand Duplantis

Priced at £48,700 this high performance watch is a touch less than its standard Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” counterpart, due mostly to the different strap options they are presented on. I wonder how many famous sporting Swedes we’ll see touting this watch in the future. Check out Omega’s other Olympic watches here.

Price and Specs:

Model: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 'Ultra Light' 150m
Ref: 220.92.41.21.03.002
Case: 41mm diameter x 13.5mm thickness, titanium
Dial: Blue adonised with horizontal stripe pattern
Water resistance: 150m (15 bar)
Movement: Omega calibre 8928 Ti, manual winding, METAS-certified, 29 jewels
Frequency: 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Strap: Blue and yellow rubber and nylon fabric
Price: £48,400

More details at Omega.

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Audemars Piguet Introduce Royal Oak Offshore 43mm Selfwinding and Chronograph in Blue and Brown https://oracleoftime.com/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-offshore-43mm-selfwinding-brown-blue/ https://oracleoftime.com/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-offshore-43mm-selfwinding-brown-blue/#respond Mon, 05 Aug 2024 14:56:53 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=192963 Audemars Piguet debut a Royal Oak Offshore 43mm Selfwinding with blue rubber bezel and steel on steel Offshore 43mm Selfwinding Chronograph.]]>

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm

The Royal Oak and the Royal Oak Offshore are such iconic watches that finding new ways to explore their designs is something of a challenge for Audemars Piguet – mostly because they’ve already tried everything. What that means is that when they release new watches, it sometimes requires careful examination to determine what is actually new. Such is the case with the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm and Chronograph 43mm.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm Time and Date 15605SK.OO.A350CA

When first looking at the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm it looks more or less exactly like you’d expect from a time and date Offshore. Although that may actually be down to a kind of Mandela effect because, in reality, time and date models of the Offshore are few and far between as the collection is mostly reserved for chronographs and other specialised tool watches.

However, the mere existence of a modern time and date model isn’t the most remarkable thing about this design. That accolade has to go to the iconic octagonal bezel, which is presented with a blue rubber coating that matches the colour of the blue fumé Méga Tapisserie dial. It’s worth noting that AP have explored rubber bezels previously with a 42mm chronograph version, but this is the first time on the 43mm selfwinding and the first time in blue. Worth noting that there is also a 37mm women’s version in gold and ivory.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm Time and Date 15605SK.OO.A350CA

Rubber bezels are not very common in the watch industry at large but they do have their root in genuine horological innovation. The example that comes to mind is the Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R Rescue Timer designed to be worn by life boat operators and which has a rubber bezel in order to protect the watch, the wearer, the people being rescued and the boat when choppy waves inevitably cause you to smack your wrist into something. It therefore matches the sporty, more tool watch oriented design of the Royal Oak Offshore.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm Time and Date 15605SK.OO.A350CA

Beneath the surface of the dial is the calibre 4302, an automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. It’s a really solid movement with time and date functions and operating at 4 Hz. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm is priced at £23,800.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 43mm

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm Chronograph 26420ST.OO.A828CR

Second up at 43mm is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph in brown. Beyond the colour of the dial, which is new, the main update to the case is tricky to spot. That’s because the new feature is the fact that the steel bezel is matched to the steel case. Every other Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 43mm is either bi-metal, ceramic or titanium, meaning a standard steel on steel model didn’t actually exist.

Focussing in on the new colour, it’s a rich chocolaty shade with a slight fumé gradient around the peripheral edges. That’s paired with black chronograph subdials that display the running seconds, 30-minute timer and 12-hour timer. Matching the black accents of the dial are the black ceramic pushers and crown that operate the complications.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm Chronograph 26420ST.OO.A828CR

Powering the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 43mm is the calibre 4401, an automatic movement with flyback chronograph. Like the 4302 it has a 70-hour power reserve and a 4 Hz frequency. The additional complications of the chrono edition means it has a substantially higher price than the time and date model at £36,100.

Price and Specs:

Model: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm
Ref: 15605SK.OO.A350CA.01 (blue time and date) 26420ST.OO.A828CR.01 (brown chronograph)
Case: 43mm diameter x 14.4mm thickness, stainless steel case
Dial: Smoked blue dial or smoked bronze dial with Méga Tapisserie pattern
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Audemars Piguet calibre 4302, automatic, 32 jewels (time and date)
Audemars Piguet calibre 4401, automatic, 40 jewels (chronograph)
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph (chronograph model only)
Strap: Blue rubber with stainless steel AP pin buckle and additional black rubber or brow alligator leather with stainless steel pin buckle and additional black rubber
Price: £23,800 (time and date), £36,100 (chronograph)

More details at Audemars Piguet.

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Seiko Prospex Speedtimer ‘Pogue’ Solar Chronograph Celebrates Spacefaring Watch https://oracleoftime.com/seiko-prospex-speedtimer-pogue-solar-chronograph-1969-re-interpretation-ssc947p1/ https://oracleoftime.com/seiko-prospex-speedtimer-pogue-solar-chronograph-1969-re-interpretation-ssc947p1/#comments Fri, 05 Jul 2024 08:00:00 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=190504 A modern Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph in the colours of the Pogue, the first automatic chronograph in space. ]]>

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 'Pogue' Solar Chronograph 1969 Re-interpretation SSC947P1

Seiko are on a roll of reimagining their Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph in interesting styles. The tail end of 2023 saw the European Exclusive edition and then in the spring of this year they released a racing themed trio. Now though, the collection is heading to space with the new Seiko Prospex Speedtimer ‘Pogue’ Solar Chronograph.

For those unfamiliar with the name Pogue, it refers to the Seiko chronograph ref. 6139 6002 from the 1970s and that was worn by Colonel William Pogue in 1973 on his trip to the Skylab Space Station. This means that it is widely credited with being the first automatic chronograph in space. You can read more about this feat in our article on history’s toughest exploration watches. You’ll also see in that article our editor begging Seiko for a reissue and now his prayers are answered. Kind of.

A Seiko “Pogue” attached to a modern bracelet.

The new Seiko Prospex Speedtimer ‘Pogue’ Solar Chronograph features a bright yellow dial with black subdials and a bezel split between blue and red. The combination of yellow, black, blue and red was prominent on the original Pogue, making the new edition a fitting tribute. Although there are some notable differences. The case shape is completely different as the Speedtimer uses the 1969 style whereas the original Pogue features a ‘turtle’ case. Plus, the display is tricompax on the modern version instead of having a single subdial at 6 o’clock.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 'Pogue' Solar Chronograph 1969 Re-interpretation SSC947P1

On top of that there’s the fact that the new interpretation of the design is powered by the V192 Solar Chronograph movement, which means that it’s quartz with a power supply charged by light passing through the dial. I do find it fairly odd to create a tribute to a watch that was famously automatic and not make the tribute automatic as well, especially when there are some really nice automatic Speedtimers in the range like the 1972.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 'Pogue' Solar Chronograph 1969 Re-interpretation SSC947P1

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 'Pogue' Solar Chronograph 1969 Re-interpretation SSC947P1

Although there is a justification that can be made for this decision. Of all the many and varied Speedtimers Seiko could have used as the basis for this tribute, zero of the automatic models have an external tachymeter bezel. Which means that there would be a huge aesthetic disconnect between the original Pogue, which did have a tachymeter bezel, and any of the automatic models in Seiko’s modern range. Therefore, the Solar Chronograph was the only real choice for this tribute – that is, if you don’t want to add a new bezel to those other models, which Seiko could easily have done.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 'Pogue' Solar Chronograph 1969 Re-interpretation SSC947P1

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer ‘Pogue’ Solar Chronograph ref. SSC947P1 is priced at £600, which is in line with the existing Solar Chronograph range. The only question is whether you save up an extra £400 or so in order to buy a vintage Pogue instead, as pre-owned models sit at around the £1,000 mark. If you’re buying this watch because you love the Pogue, I would strongly recommend getting an actual Pogue instead. If you want a Speedtimer Solar Chronograph and happen to like this colourway, it’s fine.

Price and Specs:

Model: Seiko Prospex Speedtimer ‘Pogue’ Solar Chronograph 1969 Re-interpretation
Ref: SSC947P1
Case: 41.1mm diameter, stainless steel
Dial: Green
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre V192, solar (quartz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Strap: Three-link stainless steel bracelet
Price: £600

More details at Seiko Boutique.

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Gucci Introduce Interlocking Watch Collection Featuring Automatic Sports Models https://oracleoftime.com/gucci-interlocking-watch-41mm-ya142330-ya142331/ https://oracleoftime.com/gucci-interlocking-watch-41mm-ya142330-ya142331/#respond Thu, 04 Jul 2024 10:45:49 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=190676 Gucci’s latest mid-range timepiece is the Interlocking G Automatic with a 70s-esque design and Swiss movement.]]>

Gucci Interlocking Watch 41mm YA142330

It’s difficult to know where Gucci stand on the world watchmaking stage these days. On the one hand they produce some really cool mechanical watch including a minute repeater and on the other hand, they still produce fashion watches that are intentionally focussed on style over substance. However, I think what proves to me that Gucci are genuinely invested in increasing their horological prowess is their recent focus on mid-range watches. By which I mean practical tool watches like the Gucci Dive and now the new Gucci Interlocking sports collection.

There are seven watches in the Interlocking collection, two ladies’ watches in quartz, three quartz chronographs and two men’s watches with automatic movements. Of all these watches, the automatics are the most prestigious in a watch collecting sense and so we shall narrow in on those models specifically. They are refs YA142330 and YA142331.

Gucci Interlocking Watch 41mm YA142331

Both measure 41mm in diameter and are made from steel with PVD coatings in either black or blue. Structurally, the cases are cushion shaped with broad, flat surfaces atop which sits a circular bezel with brushed finishing. The compressed cushion shape and the wide bezel call to mind the influences of 1970s integrated bracelet sports watch design. Although it’s perhaps not as explicit as many other watches that pay tribute to this period of design and importantly the Gucci Interlocking does not have an integrated bracelet.

Gucci Interlocking Watch 41mm YA142330

The name Interlocking comes from the watch’s dial. At 6 o’clock is a small seconds subdial but rather than the normal seconds hand, the entire disk rotates and is emblazoned with the Gucci interlocking double G logo. In fact it makes me want to call the collection the Gucci Interlocking G as personally I feel that “Interlocking” on its own doesn’t really convey what this watch is about. An arrow at the bottom of the Gs serves as the seconds indicator. Beyond that it’s a very clean, sporty dial.

The central portion has circular brushing in either black or blue depend on which model you have – the blue edition is further embellished by red accents. Then surrounding that is a sector hour scale with bar indexes at the cardinal points and Arabic numerals depicting the minutes in between.

Gucci Interlocking Watch 41mm YA142330

Powering the Gucci Interlocking automatic is the Sellita SW360, a perfectly reasonable work horse movement with a 56-hour power reserve. It’s visible through the exhibition caseback and is protected by the case’s 100m water resistance rating. It’s not as crazy or exciting as the 25H collection by a long shot but it’s solidly respectable in watch collecting circles. And that’s what Gucci needs in order to grow.

Gucci Interlocking Watch 41mm YA142330
Gucci Interlocking Watch 41mm YA142331

They want to be in the conversation alongside brands like Oris, high-end Seiko, Farer and so on to build a reputation as a brand for dedicated watch collectors. Creating practical watches that are actually attainable is the right way to do that. At a price of £2,200 it’s certainly not a watch you can buy without thinking but that’s also the right value range for what’s on offer. Style-wise I also think this is one of the most restrained pieces Gucci have produced, following in the footsteps of highly regarded wristwatch design from the late 20th century.

Price and Specs:

Model: Gucci Interlocking Watch 41mm
Ref: YA142330 (black), YA142331 (blue)
Case: 41mm diameter, stainless steel with black PVD coating (YA142330) or blue PVD coating (YA142331), black PVD bezel, transparent caseback
Dial: Blue or black, small seconds display with Interlocking G logo
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Sellita SW360, automatic, 31 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 56h
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Strap: Rubber with stainless steel ardillon buckle
Price: £2,200

More details at Gucci.

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How the Bulgari Aluminium Went from Iconoclast to Lightweight Classic https://oracleoftime.com/bulgari-aluminium-history/ https://oracleoftime.com/bulgari-aluminium-history/#respond Sat, 29 Jun 2024 08:00:00 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=190067 An in-depth look at the history of the Bulgari Aluminium, the sportiest offering from the luxury watchmaker.]]>

Bvlgari Aluminium Smeraldo

It’s a well-established fact that fashion trends are cyclical; it’s why parts of your wardrobe that were out of date 20 years back are suddenly in vogue. And while the watch industry moves much, much slower than the catwalk, it’s not immune to the vagaries of time. Trends may change at a glacial pace, but they’re still there and as the old guard of 60s divers followed by 70s sports watches give way it’s time to head back to the 90s. I’m so very sorry.

Unlike other era-specific watch trends, I was actually alive during the 90s. Only just, but I’ll take it. I remember listening to Nirvana on my way to see The Matrix smashing a packet of Nerds – which is odd as I’m pretty sure I was on my way to Space Jam and listening to the Spice Girls. I still to this day wake up at night haunted by the imagined theme tune to Pinky and the Brain.

Bvlgari Roma 1975

Bulgari Roma quartz (1975)

However, while pop culture may have hit a low point, watchmaking was in its ascendency. Whereas the much-documented quartz crisis of the 70s forced terrifying numbers of watchmakers to shutter their manufactures, the 90s was when the industry started to heal the damage. Swatch Group was buying up prestige brands, Patek was releasing insanely complicated calibres and there was an optimism to watches in general.

It was the kind of optimism I think we need a little more of these days. This was the era that Swatch really hit its stride with their funky, semi-disposable pieces. G-SHOCK were colourfully killing it with the Baby-G and Ikepod were building UFO-shaped watches aplenty. Sure, there were serious brands making serious things – A. Lange & Sohne comes to mind – but there was a sense of fun in unexpected combinations of colours and shapes. There was a willingness to try new, outlandish things, like an insanely high-end luxury jeweller leveraging aluminium and rubber to build an iconic watch.

Bulgari Diagono

Bulgari Diagono (circa 1988), image credit: Catawiki

I am of course talking about the Bulgari Aluminium, but before we get there it’s worth knowing that the Aluminium didn’t come out of nowhere. In 1988, the Italian-Swiss brand introduced the Diagono, their first foray into sports watches. They’d been releasing timepieces since the 1920s, including the Serpenti of the 1940s and the first Bulgari Roma of 1975, with its now famous brand-printed bezel. But these were meant to compliment their jewellery rather than appeal to a completely new audiences, so when the Diagono appeared with its integrated strap and quartz chronograph movement, it was a dramatic shift to the prestige level Bulgari had been working at. It was, dare I say, accessible.

Bvlgari Diagono Professional Scuba SD 42

Bulgari Diagono Professional Scuba SD 42 (circa 2000s)

In 1994 they launched the Diagono Scuba which, as the name suggests, was a diving variant of the watch that came with a COSC-certified movement this time and 200m water resistance. More importantly for our little biography, it came with a unique rubber strap that used big, bracelet-like links to join case and strap. These allowed the watch to lie flat against the wrist and avoid the springiness of the usual diving-appropriate rubber numbers.

Original Bvlgari Aluminium Advert 1998

Original Bulgari Aluminium Advert (1998)

Finally in 1998, Bulgari released their sports watch in its final form: the Bulgari Aluminium. The Bulgari name punched into the rubber bezel was taken directly from the original Diagono (and therefore the Roma of the 70s); the odd, rubber-coated trapezoidal links either side of the strap were taken from the Diagono Scuba and in its own twist, it introduced lightweight aluminium to the mix.

Style wise, it wasn’t just a throwback to Bulgari’s own watchmaking heritage, but the sports watches of two decades prior. The integrated strap, the industrial look, the whole thing felt like an accessible homage to the Genta era. In the 2020s, I’ve read similar sentiments in too many press releases from terrible Kickstarter brands to not roll my eyes, but back then it was just cool.

Bvlgari Aluminium Alitalia Boeing 747 Advert 1998

Bulgari Aluminium advertised on a Alitalia Boeing 747 (1998)

It’s hard to overstate how left-field the Aluminium was. It made sense from a product point of view of course. Aluminium is super lightweight and much more accessible than titanium. But at a time when the watch industry had only just started to be seen as a luxury purchase, Bulgari heading the other way was audacious at best, a gamble at worst.

We’re still talking about it, so it’s obviously a gamble that paid off. Sure, it helped that Bulgari plastered it across the side of 747 planes (back when Boeing were less terrifying) under the tagline, ‘Bulgari Aluminium Flies with Alitalia, but even under its own merits the Aluminium became an instant jet-set icon. Perhaps it was the innate fun of the watch. Perhaps it was the sleek, high-contrast aesthetics. It might even be that in the 90s we all loved a bit of branded – and the bezel, links and dial of the Aluminium were all VERY branded.

Bvlgari Aluminium 2020
Bvlgari Aluminium 2020

Bulgari Aluminium (2020)

It was successful enough that, after ending the Aluminium run back in …, Bulgari brought the collection back in 2020, with new automatic movements rather than the accessible quartz of the original generation. Again, it was a surprise given that at the same time the brand was showcasing their thinline watchmaking through the record-breaking Finissimo line. And yet once again it was the perfect time to bring it back, a time where collectors were looking for value and cool factor as much as classical prestige. It’s no coincidence that with the accessible microbrands, Bulgari’s uber-accessible slice of fun made a comeback – and it did so with a GPHG win right out of the gate.

That comeback was faithful to the original aesthetically, superior mechanically and has since spawned an ever-growing collection of fun pieces across time-only watches, chronographs and GMTs. Case in point, the trio of new releases for 2024.

Bvlgari Aluminium GMT

Bulgari Aluminium GMT

The first is the most straightforward. The Aluminium Black GMT is pretty much a retread of the debut design codes of 1998, with black, white and red. With a crisp white dial and black bezel and strap, it’s high contrast and jet-set enough that you could easily see it on the side of an aircraft. An Airbus, maybe. The 24-hour ring is mildly coke flavoured with it’s split between black for the night hours, red for the day. It’s similar to the previous blue version, but much more eye-catching. It’s also the same price at the older model at £3,540.

Second, we have the time only version which takes a clean, minimalist approach. The whole watch, Bulgari-stamped bezel included, is white, with just hints of red either end of the second hand. It looks and feels light and while it certainly veers more feminine, it’s nonetheless a seriously cool watch if you can get away with it, limited to 1,000 pieces and priced to move at £2,980.

Bvlgari Aluminium Smeraldo

Bulgari Aluminium Smeraldo

Finally, we have the highlight of the new drop – and in my opinion, the modern Aluminium collection as a whole – the Smeraldo. It’s not hard to guess why I like this one. The gorgeous mediterranean green of the dial goes from emerald at the bottom to white at the top, a fun take on a fume gradient. The chronograph subdials, rubber bezel and strap are in a darker, forest green which tones down the brighter dial colour nicely and marks it out from the rest of the Aluminium collection.

At £4,750, the Smeraldo is perhaps not as accessible as you might want from the collection as a whole, and it’s still a limited edition at 1,000 pieces, but it’s still a perfect summer watch. And there’s no denying it’s a fresh new look for the Aluminium, a watch that itself still feels as fresh and new as back in those halcyon days of 1998. At the very least, it’s aged a hell of a lot better than me.

More details at Bulgari.

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Rado Introduce Captain Cook Blue Gradient for a Summer of Sport https://oracleoftime.com/rado-captain-cook-blue-gradient-summer/ https://oracleoftime.com/rado-captain-cook-blue-gradient-summer/#respond Thu, 27 Jun 2024 09:05:08 +0000 https://oracleoftime.com/?p=190002 The Rado Captain Cook is one of the most quintessential sports watches on the market. It has the toughness and durability of a diver, featuring a diameter of 42mm and a water resistance of 300m, so it’s suitable for virtually any occasion.]]>

Rado Captain Cook Summer Tennis R32154208

Rado position themselves as the master of materials, which is very bold claim in an industry full of innovators. But it’s a claim they can back up with their exceptional ceramic timepieces like the Captain Cook Skeleton. However, being a true master of a discipline means being adept at all its facets and intricacies and specialising in one material doesn’t make you a master of all. Which is why it’s nice to see Rado remember the basics with the new Rado Captain Cook summer blue gradient in stainless steel.

Starting with an overview, the Captain Cook is one of the most quintessential sports watches on the market. It has the toughness and durability of a diver, featuring a diameter of 42mm and a water resistance of 300m, so it’s suitable for virtually any occasion. Indeed, the watch’s heritage is closely associated with the water, after all it’s named after one of the most famous sailors in history.

Rado Captain Cook Summer Tennis R32154208

The reason I say sports watch rather than diver is more to do with how Rado position themselves in the market these days. Their ambassadors have historically been people like Cameron Norrie, the UK’s current No.2 men’s tennis player and Ash Barty, former women’s world No.1 tennis player. Recently they’ve also been getting into the sphere of cricket with Cameron Green (they really seem to like people called Cameron) as well as a collaboration watch with England Cricket.

For this summer edition, the Rado Captain Cook has been dressed with a colourful dial featuring a gradient from white in the centre to blue around the periphery. Which is then matched by a blue timer bezel. It reminds me of an indoor tennis court (you may be able to tell that tennis is my favourite sport and I am happily bias towards it) although typically indoor courts are more in use in the winter as summer is the season of grass courts – Wimbledon is just around the corner.

Rado Captain Cook Summer Tennis R32154208

Powering the watch is the Rado calibre R763, which is a very solid movement. It has automatic winding and an 80-hour power reserve, meaning if you do put it down for the weekend it will still be ticking on Monday when you strap it back on. As for the strap, it comes with three. There’s a steel bracelet with titanium clasp, a blue leather strap and a white and blue NATO strap, which I think is my favourite of the trio.

Rado Captain Cook Summer Tennis R32154208

Priced at £2,500 it’s competitively priced alongside other high performance sports and tool watches. Watches like the Oris Divers Sixty-Five and honestly in terms of value I think the Rado Captain Cook blue gradient claims the victory – although it would come down to a fifth set tiebreaker.

Price and Specs:

Model: Rado Captain Cook
Ref: R32154208
Case: 42mm diameter x 12.3mm thickness, stainless steel, blue high-tech ceramic bezel
Dial: Blue and white gradient
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Rado calibre R763, automatic, 25 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 80h
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with titanium 3 fold clasp, additional blue leather strap with stainless steel extendable folding clasp and blue & white textile NATO strap with stainless steel pin buckle
Price: £2,500

More details at Rado.

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