Move over vintage mid-century, ‘Pop Art’ 60s and disco 70s – the 80s, 90s and even the early 2000s are now fully staking their claim for the attention of vintage watch collectors. Well, it may not be as dramatic as all that, but interest in wristwatches designed from 1980 to early the 2000s appears to be growing. As many will know this era has been given the term ‘neo- vintage’. Broadly there is a convergence of factors which have contributed to more attention being paid by collectors to watches designed from the 1980s to early 2000s. Here’s a handy guide (with honestly perhaps TOO MUCH information) to the history of collecting neo-vintage watches at auction.  

Firstly, the 80s-00s period includes the origins of many of today’s most esteemed independents. I remember writing an article for the BHI, Horological Journal back in 2019 about the increasing recognition that noted independents were obtaining at auction. Since then this trend has continued if not accelerated. Secondly, the era also encompasses how the Swiss watch industry in particular responded to the quartz revolution/crisis. Indeed the industry did manage to respond by producing some superb watches which are now both rare and collectable. It is additionally about evolving collector tastes. Plus, as we research this era in more detail it allows the stories, which are so important to watch collecting, to be told.

F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’égalité sold for CHF 7.3 million, (approx. £6.5 million), at Phillips, ‘Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999’ auction in Geneva on 8 November 2024. Image credit: Phillips

So when Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo announced that they would hold a thematic auction entirely devoted to mechanical watches designed during the period 1980-1999, titled ‘Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999’ it presented an ideal opportunity to cover the auction and reflect on this era in watchmaking history.

The auction was held in Geneva on 8 November and presented 65 curated lots all of which sold achieving ‘white glove’ status for the auction. The total sale value was CHF 24.8 million, (approximately £22 million) including buyer’s premium. Five watches in the auction broke the Swiss Franc CHF1 million mark. The outstanding lot was an F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’égalité, wristwatch from 1993 that sold for CHF 7.3 million (approximately £6.5 million), including buyer’s premium. As Phillips noted the sale was a world auction record for an F.P. Journe wristwatch and a world auction record for a watch by an independent watchmaker to date.

In this article we get the thoughts of Alexandre Ghotbi at Phillips about the auction and look at some of the highlights from the auction. Plus I talk with London based vintage watch dealer Daniel Somlo to ask what trends he is seeing related to neo-vintage. We also have some fascinating data from global online watch marketplace Chrono24.

In Conversation with Alexandre Ghotbi at Phillips

Alexandre Ghotbi is Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe and Middle East for Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo. Based in Geneva his role has given him the opportunity to auction some of the world’s finest and rarest watches. Here he provides his thoughts about Phillips’ thematic auction held on 8 November and the reasons for the growing collector interest in mechanical watches designed during the period 1980-1999.

Your auction, ‘Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999’, is a celebration of watchmaking from this era. What makes this period increasingly special for today’s collectors and watch enthusiasts?

The arrival of the cheap quartz watch in the 1970s almost decimated the mechanical watch industry. The last two decades of the 20th Century were the years when the watchmaking industry was at crossroads, disappear or reinvent itself to survive. Not only did it choose the latter, but it redefined itself. Pioneering designs, groundbreaking complications, and the rise of independent watchmakers paved the way for the thriving landscape of today. During these pivotal decades, watchmakers and brands dug deep to create some of the most innovative and complex mechanical watches ever seen. It is a period that witnessed the resurrection and redefinition of mechanical watchmaking, not as a relic of the past but as a forward-looking art form imbued with modern sensibilities.

Vianney Halter Antiqua, 18k pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch (1999) and very rare first generation Patek Philippe ref. 3940J, 18k yellow gold perpetual calendar (1986). Image credit: Phillips

Are there key aspects that make for a quintessentially ‘neo-vintage’ watch from the 1980s, 90s and early 2000s?

That is difficult to say as the watches we see today often find their roots in that era. But in general I would say we can see smaller case sizes, even though we are currently going back to that time, and a more back to basics approach- even though some extremely flamboyant designs were penned at the time

What would be two examples of wristwatches that you particularly like from this era?   

I’ll go for two very opposite sides of the spectrum, the Vianney Halter Antiqua that launched the creative independent horology genre and the Patek Philippe ref 3940 that is the quintessential modern Patek Philippe.

The Saxon Re-Emergence

Rare early A. Lange & Söhne, Lange 1 ref. 101.026 (1999) Phillips. Image credit: Phillips

In 1989 the Berlin Wall fell in what was then and still is a seismic historical moment. A year later on 3 October 1990 Germany was reunified. In Saxony, Germany the old watchmaking town of Glashütte was about to be reawakened. Leading this re-emergence was Walter Lange, the great grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange who founded A. Lange & Söhne in 1845. Walter Lange re-established his family brand 145 years later in 1990. In 1994, he and Gunter Blumlein launched four pivotal watch models, the Lange 1, Arkade, Saxonia and Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite”. These new releases quickly established a defined stylistic language for A. Lange & Söhne, in part based on tradition, and gained international recognition.

Phillips’ thematic auction included an A. Lange & Söhne, Lange 1 wristwatch in ‘New Old Stock’ condition. The watch, a ref. 101.026 in stainless steel is from 1999 sized at 38.5mm, with a manual movement. The dial displaying eccentric time and seconds with an asymmetrically positioned large date window and power reserve which is now recognised as signature A. Lange & Söhne design. Of note, Phillips catalogued that the Lange 1 at the time was never officially launched in a stainless steel version. Making this a very rare example. The watch fetched CHF 241,300, (approximately £214,860), including buyer’s premium. The estimate was CHF 150,000 – 300,000.

The re-launch of A. Lange & Söhne marks an important aspect relating to interest by collectors of watches designed from the 1980s to early 2000s. Collector appreciation is for watch design that brought something new to the table and marks the watch out as being from the period. Collectors are also interested in the story of how these watchmakers and brands showed not only innovation but also thoughtful design that demonstrated their passion and respect for skills of watchmaking.

Quartz Crisis Recovery

Elegantly crafted and technically accomplished Blancpain, ref. 5335-1418 18k yellow gold minute repeating, perpetual calendar (1991) Image credit: Phillips

While in Germany, A. Lange & Söhne, was re-establishing itself, many traditional Swiss brands were also undergoing transition during the 80s and 90s as they faced both difficult economic pressures and the quartz crisis. For these brands the changes needed would be critical to their ongoing success.

It was at that point that new figures emerged who would help shape the future of Swiss watchmaking. One of these legendary figures is Jean-Claude Biver. In the early 1980s Jean-Claude Biver would work with Jacques Piguet, (from the watch movement making firm of Frederic Piguet), to revitalize Blancpain while keeping fine mechanical watchmaking at the very heart of the business. The famed Swiss watch Maison was originally established as early as 1735.

At their auction Phillips featured a watch from the new Biver / Piguet era of Blancpain packed full of horological complications within its very elegant case. The technically accomplished ref. 5335-1418, 18k yellow gold minute repeating, perpetual calendar, wristwatch is from circa 1991. The piece did well making CHF 43,180, (approximately £38,380), including buyer’s premium. The estimate was set at a lower CHF 18,000 – 26,000.

World first automatic tourbillon, Audemars Piguet ref. 25643 Circa. 1990. Image credit: Phillips

The date of this watch neatly provides a segue to mention another pivotal figure in the Swiss industry at the time, Nicolas G. Hayek (1928-2010). Famed for his revolutionary Swatch watch launched in 1983. Hayek also led the strategy behind the formation of the multi brand Swatch Group Ltd in 1998. Under his direction in 1992, SMH, (which later became the Swatch Group Ltd), acquired Blancpain.

This section on watch brand innovation during the 80s to 90s would not be complete without mentioning Audemars Piguet. In the early 1990s Audemars Piguet built upon their Royal Oak model by releasing the very successful Royal Oak Offshore in 1993. Haute horology also featured, with an example here from the Phillips’ auction. A stunning and rare Audemars Piguet ref. 25643, ‘groundbreaking’ platinum tourbillon wristwatch with a mother of pearl dial from circa 1990. As Phillips recorded the ref. 25643, as launched in 1986 was the world’s first automatic tourbillon wristwatch. The watch is also incredibly thin at 5.3mm. Estimated at CHF 20,000 – 40,000 it went on the achieve CHF 101,600, (approximately £90,220), including buyer’s premium.   

Re-Defining the Luxury Watch

Somlo Antiques

Speaking with well-known vintage watch dealer and qualified watchmaker Daniel Somlo, Director at Somlo London based in Burlington Arcade about the neo-vintage period he brought out some key points.

“Collecting neo-vintage watches from the 80s to early 2000s is still a relatively new market when compared to established interest in earlier vintage watches, but it is growing. Newer collectors, especially younger collectors, are looking to explore more niche areas beyond just tool watches and the luxury sports watch categories. The trend corresponds also with a focus on ‘quiet luxury’ and an interest in more dressy pieces and smaller cases. It’s not about outlandish pieces but rather an appreciation of fine mechanical watches combined with interesting design elements”.

“Of the period itself, the 80s was still a difficult time for Swiss watch brands. They were finding their way out of the quartz crisis which heavily impacted the industry during the 70s. Brands tried experimenting with lots of different things, including squeezing high complication movements into various cases in order to justify their prices against quartz wristwatches. By the later 90s brands had become much more confident in their design and justifying mechanical watchmaking and people were buying fine mechanical watches again. The purpose of the Swiss mechanical watch had shifted away from being a timepiece to becoming a luxury product. The period also saw the genesis of the modern independent watchmaker as the market allowed more innovation and appreciated the craft of the watchmaker. For me, a very nice example of a neo vintage period watch is the Patek Philippe ref. 3940”.

The Independence Movement

Historically important F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoire d’Egalité (1993) and an extremely rare Daniel Roth, ref. C187. Image credit: Phillips

At the very end of the 20^th century, in 1999 Omega adopted Dr George Daniels CBE, FBHI (1926 – 2011) revolutionary Co-Axial escapement. This moment seems a fitting conclusion to the two decades of the 80s and 90s, and as a gateway into the early 2000s. A period which saw so many of today’s esteemed independents take the plunge to go it alone. In a period of both uncertainty and possibility they found a way through to produce amazing creations that continue to delight collectors today. Indeed this must rank as one of the major stories of this period as the commentators in this article have already noted. Below is a list, (but please note this is not an exhaustive list), of just a few of the independents that started out during the late 20th century and into the early 2000s.

Phillips, ‘Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999’ thematic auction was well represented with a who’s who of independent makers from the period.  Three superb neo-vintage examples by independents, including an F.P. Journe that achieved an astounding CHF 7.3 million, (approximately £6.5 million) in the auction.

Chrono24 Neo-Vintage Market Trends

Of course it is one thing to talk about an uptick in interest in collecting neo-vintage watches but obtaining hard data is another thing. The fact that the Phillips curated an entire thematic auction devoted to watches designed during the 1980-1999 period, which was 100% sold definitely points to this interest. But in the wider secondary market what is happening? To help obtain some data, Chrono24 have kindly undertaken some analysis of their global online watch marketplace specifically for this article.

Before diving into the data some notes are needed. Firstly the data is based on sales revenue. In other words what has sold via the Chrono24 platform. Chrono24 has clustered the data based on the listed age of the watches on their platform. This data has then been broken down by modern, being watches with dates after 2004. Neo-vintage, watches listed as aged between 1980 – 2004. Vintage, watches with age dates prior to 1980. With respect to the neo-vintage data classification it therefore includes all watches sold on their platform with watch age dates listed as between 1980 – 2004. It must therefore be noted that this is not the same as watches designed and released during the period, which typically is the focus of neo-vintage collectors. Nevertheless the data is very interesting, as follows.

The first graph might raise some eyebrows as it actually shows a decline since 2019 in watches brought on the Chrono24 platform that had listed watch age dates between 1980 – 2004. Potentially this could be explained by the tremendous ‘hype’ bubble that occurred between 2019 to 2023 for near new modern watches. Of note so far for 2024, watches with listed ages between 1980 – 2004 have seen a market share increase in sales on the Chrono24 platform of 6.5% when compared to 2023.

Now, this graph showing 2024 sales data from Chrono24 is fascinating and confirms a trend that has been noticeable in the auction market more recently. The interest in wristwatches by Cartier from all eras, be it vintage, neo-vintage or modern. The smaller cased watches of Cartier, their asymmetrical designs, dresser but elegant look, and the heritage of Cartier have all collectively combined to create collector interest. The graph covers watches bought on the Chrono24 platform that had listed watch age dates that fall between 1980 to 2004. A surprising piece of data from the graph is the growing interest in watches aged between 1980 – 2004 made by Jaeger-LeCoultre, famed for their Reverso wristwatch first launched in 1931.

Another revealing graph shows the top selling watch models, (one per brand), so far in 2024 on the Chrono24 platform which have listed watch age dates between 1980 – 2004. Many of these watches are models that were designed and launched prior to 1980. But some of the watches listed did get designed between 1980 – 2004 and reflect interest in collecting pieces from the period. These include the Patek Philippe Aquanaut released in 1997, the Vacheron Constantin, Reference. 47101 launched in 1989, and Breitling Chronomat, Reference. 81950 designed in the 1990s.

More details at Chrono24.

Dirty Dozen Watches from circa 1945. Image credit: Christopher Beccan for Watches of Knightsbridge

Military watches have long held interest for collectors with their many variations in service throughout the 20th century. This article looks at some recent vintage military wristwatches sold at auction highlighting their often-fascinating history, extensive range of makers, and current auction prices.

Collecting Vintage Military Watches: A Dealer’s Perspective

Lemania stainless steel monopusher chronograph, used by military test pilots for the B.A.C, (British Aircraft Corporation), during the 1960s, with an original dial showing the British military property broad arrow ‘↑’ and circled ‘T’ for tritium luminescence, the caseback is marked ‘B.A.C. L4’. Sold by Watches of Knightsbridge for £3,500 hammer price, before fees. Image credit: Watches of Knightsbridge

To start this article, I caught up with Paul Maudsley from Remontoire Ltd to get his thoughts on collecting vintage military timepieces. Paul is a fine watch dealer who has worked in senior level positions within the auction world including roles as Director of Watches for both Bonhams and Phillips. Paul noted:

“I have always found military watches interesting. There is a big market out there amongst collectors, but it is still a relatively niche market as such. I think the historical element combined with the technical aspects of the watches attracts collectors. It is also a wide collecting category, spanning at one end vintage military pieces that you might pay around £1500 for at auction including fees right through to a watch like a Rolex Submariner ‘MilSub’ for which you could potentially pay over £300,000 for a good example at auction”.

“The other fascinating part comes with researching and finding out about a particular set of military watches or a specific model. A good example would be the Lemania military wristwatches that were used on Royal Navy submarines. When buying originality is the key and anything with a good story or provenance. Make sure any military markings are correct, do your homework which is also a great way to learn about these watches”.

Military Pilot’s Watches

Rare Lemania ‘Viggen’ ref. 817, a stainless steel chronograph wristwatch from the 1970s, made for Swedish Air Force pilots flying the Saab 37 Viggen fighter jet, image credit: Sotheby’s.

Flying at speed in a Saab 37 Viggen fighter jet over the forests of Sweden with the arctic circle on the horizon must have afforded Swedish Air Force pilots in the 1970s a stunning view. Should they have had time to glance at their wrists some of those pilots would have been wearing a Lemania, Reference. 817 ‘Viggen’ stainless steel chronograph wristwatch. Today this watch is a collector item with an example from circa 1970 selling at Sotheby’s, Important Watches sale in New York on 5 June for US $20,400, (approximately £15,710), including buyer’s premium. The result flew well above the estimate of US $7,000 – 11,000. Sotheby’s noted that only about 400 watches were commissioned.

Another equally rare military pilots’ Lemania wristwatch to be auctioned recently was a stainless steel, monopusher chronograph wristwatch used by military test pilots for the B.A.C, (British Aircraft Corporation), during the 1960s. With a 39mm diameter case and fixed lug bars. The chronograph was auctioned by Watches of Knightsbridge at their Modern, Vintage & Military Timepieces sale on 1 June. Given an estimate of between £3,500 – 4,500 it fetched £3,500 hammer price, before fees. The caseback is stamped ‘B.A.C. L4’, providing an excellent example of how stamped markings on military watches can identify their use.

Omega ref 34/62, a rare stainless steel monopusher chronograph with hacking seconds, made for the Royal Canadian Air Force from 1960s, accompanied by photographs of the original fighter pilot owner, military documentation, and a storybook of 433 Squadron. Sold by Sotheby’s for US $8,400, (approximately £6,460), including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Sotheby’s.

An Omega pilots’ wristwatch also featured an example of a monopusher chronograph wristwatch. This being a Reference 34/62 stainless steel watch with hacking seconds. Made for the Royal Canadian Air Force from circa 1960. Featuring a Calibre. 2221 mechanical movement and sized at 38 mm diameter with ‘RCAF’ stamped markings on the caseback. The watch sold for US $8,400, (approximately £6,460), including buyer’s premium at Sotheby’s, Important Watches sale in New York on 5 June. The estimate was US $8,000 – 12,000.

Military Diving Watches

Rolex Submariner MilSub ref 5517 from circa 1978, stamped for the British Royal Navy. Sold by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo for HK$3,429,000, (approximately £337,590), including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Phillips

High on the check list for many collectors are the famed 20th century military diving wristwatches often used by elite units. Four of the most sought-after watches are the Omega Seamaster 300, Reference. 165.024 / Panerai Radiomir, Reference. 3646 / Rolex Submariner, Reference. 5513 & 5517 known as the ‘MilSub’ / Tornek-Rayville TR-900 wristwatch made for the US military.

Examples of three of these watches have recently sold at auction, these being the Omega, Rolex, and Tornek-Rayville. Diving straight in, let’s start with the Rolex. The Rolex MilSub, (short for military Submariner), was made for the British Ministry of Defence (MOD) in the early 1970s. It is arguably the best-known military wristwatch in existence. Before considering the MilSub example this is a perfect time to talk about the importance of originality. Put simply the more original a military watch is, with the correct dial, hands, bezel, in fact any part, along with the correct military markings the more collectable it will be. Originality however can be a challenge with vintage military wristwatches given that they were tool watches and used as such. Additionally, post their military service these watches in civilian life may also have had replacement parts fitted over assorted servicing. Patina is less of an issue with military watches, as many collectors like a well-worn look, indicative of active service and the history of the watch.

Rolex Submariner MilSub ref 5517 from circa 1978, stamped for the British Royal Navy. Sold by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo for HK$3,429,000, (approximately £337,590), including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Phillips.

Back to the Rolex MilSub, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo offered a very rare, fine, and highly collectable example at their Hong Kong Watch auction held between 24-25 November 2023. Their Rolex Submariner, MilSub, Reference. 5517, dated to circa 1978. Made from stainless steel with a 40mm diameter case on a NATO style strap. The wristwatch was used by the British Royal Navy as indicated by the stamped military numbers on the caseback. The markings also include the British military property broad arrow ‘↑’ symbol. Powered by a Calibre. 1520, automatic movement, with a hacking seconds feature. The watch has the correct military specification fixed lugs, bezel calibrated for 60 minutes, sword-shaped hands, and encircled ‘T’ for tritium luminescence. In addition, Phillips noted that the Reference. 5517 is very rare and made specifically for the MOD. They also catalogued that research indicates the existence of Reference numbers, 5513, double reference 5513/5517, and 5517 for the Rolex MilSub watch. Estimated at HK$1,950,000 – 3,900,000 the watch sold for HK$3,429,000, (approximately £337,590), including buyer’s premium. A price that reflects the esteem that collectors give to examples of the MilSub in as near as possible original condition.

By way of direct comparison in terms of a Rolex MilSub with later added parts, Bonhams offered an MOD military issue Rolex Submariner, MilSub, Reference. 5513, from circa 1974 at their Knightsbridge sale on 22 May. As Bonhams catalogued this watch had later added non-military Rolex Mercedes hands, a replacement bezel marked for 15 minutes rather than the military spec 60-minute calibration, and with the military markings removed from the caseback. Additionally, the military specification fixed bars between the lugs had been replaced with spring bars. The watch did however have excellent provenance having originally belonged to a Royal Navy diver. At auction the watch fetched £25,600 including buyer’s premium.

Rare British military Omega Seamaster 300 ref 165.024 from circa 1969, with a full 60-minute calibrated bezel, tritium luminescence shown by the circled ‘T’ on the dial, oversize sword hands and military caseback markings. Sold by Bonhams for £23,040 including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Bonhams

Omega’s famed Seamaster received the full British military specification treatment in the mid-1960s to meet the requirements of the MOD. As noted by Bonhams this included solid fixed bars between the lugs, a full 60-minute calibrated bezel, tritium luminescence with the circled ‘T’ on the dial, and oversize sword hands. The example shown here was sold by Bonhams at their New Bond Street auction on 19 June. This Seamaster 300, Reference. 165.024 is from circa 1969. Powered by a Calibre.552 automatic movement with a stainless steel case sized at 41mm diameter. The screw down caseback bears stamped British military markings including the military property broad arrow ‘↑’. This watch is fitted with spring bars. In the early 1970s the Omega was replaced by the Rolex Submariner MilSub. With an estimate of £15,000 – 20,000 the Omega made £23,040 including buyer’s premium.

When faced with import restrictions to the USA in the 1960s Blancpain could not directly supply the US military with its Fifty Fathoms diving watch. This was because the US Military could only buy US made products. As Antiquorum pick up the story in their cataloguing – Blancpain’s US distributor, Allen V. Tornek then established the US based Tornek-Rayville entity. As a result, the now legendary Tornek-Rayville TR-900 diver wristwatch was created for the US military. Effectively the watch is a modified Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The original Fifty Fathoms was launched in 1953, the same year that Rolex released the Submariner, making it one of the early modern era 20th century diver wristwatches. Antiquorum further noted that the Tornek-Rayville TR-900 wristwatch is very rare due to the limited number produced plus many watches were destroyed by the US Navy at the end of their service.

An extremely rare Tornek-Rayville TR-900 US military divers’ wristwatch. The watch has been retrospectively fitted with an original period correct dial with the humidity indicator at 6 o’clock. The caseback is inscribed: ‘If found return to nearest military facility’ ‘Danger Radioactive Material’. Sold by Antiquorum for €72,160, (approximately £61,540), including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Antiquorum

The Antiquorum, US military Tornek-Rayville TR-900 example was sold at their Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces auction held in Monaco on 13 July. The collector who owned the watch had originally purchased it with a later non correct dial. He was able to source an original Tornek-Rayville period correct dial and have this fitted to the watch. Antiquorum documented this clearly in their cataloguing. The stainless steel watch is sized at 41 mm diameter on a NATO style strap and is from circa 1965. The replacement dial features a humidity indicator at 6 o’clock as per the original watch design. The wristwatch sold for €72,160, (approximately £61,540), including buyer’s premium. The estimate was set between €50,000 – €150,000.

The ‘Dirty Dozen’

‘Dirty Dozen’ British military ‘W.W.W’ Longines wristwatch from circa 1945, with an original dial, a British military property broad arrow ‘↑’ symbol and military markings. Sold by Watches of Knightsbridge for £3,800 hammer price, before fees. Image credit: Watches of Knightsbridge

Some military watches have become iconic, such as the diving wristwatches mentioned above. To this group can be added the Mark 11 RAF pilots’ and navigator’s wristwatch introduced around 1948. Both IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre made this watch for the British MOD. Another watch for the group would include the French Ministry of Defence, Type XX flyback chronograph from the mid-1950s. This wristwatch was famously made by Breguet and Mathey-Tissot. But no group of iconic military wristwatches would be complete without mention of the so-called ‘Dirty Dozen’. A name later given to the set of 12 watches, in reference to the 1967 war action movie.

Made to the specifications of the British MOD during the Second World War, 12 watch companies supplied these watches including Buren, Eterna, Grana, Longines, Vertex, Lemania, Record, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Cyma, and Timor. The watches became available to the British armed forces at the end of the war. Occasionally the whole set of 12 wristwatches can come up for auction. The most elusive watch in the group is the Grana. Bonhams sold a ‘Dirty Dozen’ Grana wristwatch from circa 1945 in February this year for £17,920 including buyer’s premium. Pictured for this article is a Longines ‘Dirty Dozen’ British military ‘W.W.W’ stainless steel cased wristwatch from circa 1945. The movement is a manual wind Calibre. 12.68Z, with the case sized at approximately 37.5mm diameter. The watch was auctioned by Watches of Knightsbridge at their Modern, Vintage & Military Timepieces sale on 1 June. Estimated at £3,000 – 4,000 it fetched £3,800 hammer price, before fees.

Watches with Military Affiliations

A rare modern limited-edition Tudor, Pelagos ‘Royal Navy Clearance Diver’ ref 25600TB, made for the 70th anniversary of the Royal Navy Clearance Diver division. Sold by Sotheby’s for £10,800 including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Sotheby’s.

A smaller niche area for military watch collecting are those more modern wristwatches produced to pay homage to military forces or specific units, usually issued as limited editions. This also includes watches made to recognise military anniversaries and events, along with ongoing relationships between a watch brand and a particular military force. Examples include Bremont with their ‘Approved by His Majesty’s Armed Forces’ watch range and Breitling with their Royal Air Force – Red Arrows team watches. Often these timepieces include the use of military shields, emblems, or the depiction of military equipment such as fighter jets, belonging to the military forces celebrated by the watch. While these pieces are not military watches in the purist sense, and are often available for the public to buy, they can offer watch enthusiasts another collecting area.

An excellent example sold recently by Sotheby’s was a modern 2022, Tudor, Pelagos ‘Royal Navy Clearance Diver’, Reference. 25600TB, titanium wristwatch made for the 70th anniversary of the Royal Navy Clearance Diver division. This watch is a limited-edition version of the brand’s Pelagos wristwatch with the addition of a special script on the blue dial and an engraved caseback with the military division’s emblem. Sotheby’s noted that the watch was available to Royal Navy divers. The inscribed ‘E.O.D’ on the caseback stands for ‘Explosive Ordnance Disposal’. The original owner of the watch served in the Royal Navy. Auctioned on 29 May at Sotheby’s in London the watch fetched £10,800 including buyer’s premium against an estimate of £10,000 – 20,000.

By way of comparison a standard pre-owned, 2022, Tudor, Pelagos titanium wristwatch, Reference. M25600TB, will sell for around £3,250 with box and papers via a secondary watch market dealer. It must be noted however that this type of differential is enjoyed only by the very rarest of these military style wristwatches which must also be exclusive only to members of the military unit for which the watch was made for. Most of these military style watches are sold directly to the public and therefore are considered less collectable as such.

Servicing Vintage Military Watches

The movement and inside case back for a Lemania stainless steel, monopusher chronograph wristwatch. Used by military test pilots for the B.A.C, (British Aircraft Corporation), during the 1960s. Image credit: Watches of Knightsbridge

Many vintage military watches that come up for auction will have lived a bit of a hard life and are obviously very unlikely to be box fresh. Indeed, for collectors it is this very element that makes these watches interesting, their history, military service and resulting patina. But if you are planning to bid on a vintage military watch at auction, to borrow some military terminology, take time to do some prior reconnaissance. As noted by Paul Maudsley at the beginning of this article do your research. Find out as much as possible about the watch, how original is the condition, what makes it interesting to collect, and is there any relevant provenance? Check if the stamped military markings are correct and learn what they mean. Also, find out what the auction house fees are, plus any additional online bidding fees, and think about the maximum you want to bid.

Service work on a watch movement. Image credit: Harris Horology

Finally, like any piece of military kit, you need to make sure it is in working order. Take time to read any auction house condition reports and ask the auction watch specialists for more information if needed. Remember that once you have purchased the watch at auction, unless it has been misrepresented, its yours. This means if the watch movement or other part such as a crown and winding stem break you will need to have it repaired. So, this brings us to the question of servicing and repair when it’s time for your watch to have some well earnt ‘R&R.’ This is a topic on its own right, but I thought it might be helpful to include a few general comments on the subject. To do this I spoke with James Harris FBHI, an award-winning horologist and accredited watchmaker at Harris Horology in London. I asked James for his views on servicing vintage military watches:

“There is nothing inherently different from servicing other vintage timepieces. However, you should be confident that whoever carries out the work has experience with them and understands the importance of sympathetic repair to maintain as much as possible the originality of the watch. At HH we specialise in vintage and so our practice is always conservation-based. Replacing dials, hands, bezels, crowns etc, or even fixed bars on vintage military watches can all detract from originality and ultimately the value of the watch. Typically, military watches like the ‘Dirty Dozen’ have good quality movements and provided they have not been too badly treated over the years. Servicing tends to be cleaning the movement, regulating, and applying fresh lubrication with some repair and restoration if needed”.

Service work on a military Lemania chronograph watch dial. Image credit: Harris Horology

I also asked James about radium luminescence, (or lume), that was used on earlier vintage military watches before the introduction of tritium luminescence, and now modern non-radioactive Super-LumiNova.

“You should be careful: The consensus seems to be that you need not be scared of these watches, but it needs to be respected. Don’t open watch cases with radium lume as potentially this could release particles into the air which you might breathe in. When we service timepieces that have radium lume, we work in a special air evacuation clean space”.

Resources and Reading

For those entering the world of military watch collecting there are some useful websites and reference books. One informative website is CWC ADDICT which is a dedicated collector website covering the topic of British military timepieces made by CWC. Apart from the CWC content the website also lists other resources for military watch collectors. A few reference books for collectors include:

Zaf Basha; ‘Vintage Military Wristwatches’
Konrad Knirim; ‘British Military Timepieces’
Marvin. E Whitney; ‘Military Timepieces.’

A number of these titles might also be available as second hand books. Another quick but helpful read for entry level collectors is a posted article by Bonhams titled: ‘Collecting 101 Military Watches.’.

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