Timor Modern Field 100M

Timor first came to my attention for their painfully perfect Dirty Dozen re-issue a few years back, so in my head they’re quintessentially vintage. Not so the Modern Field. It still has that field watch heritage, but in a high-contrast, blacked-out-with white-numerals look that’s a world away from classic. That said, it’s still offered in a vintage size at 36.5mm, so if you really want to amp up that SAS-worthy modern military vibe, you’ll need the Expedition overcase; a hardwearing black sheath you can screw over your Timor to up its rugged cred, complete with a range of coloured inserts. It’ll set you back another £150, but for an entirely new watch (or just another option), it might be worth it.

More details at Timor.

REC Lotus 98T/4

If you don’t know REC’s modus operandi by now, let me elaborate: take metal from an iconic car, aircraft, bike, whatever and repurpose it into a thematically appropriate timepiece. We’ve seen a few brands try it over the years, but none better than REC. That’s doubly true of the handsome new ode to Lotus, the 98T/4. The number comes from Lotus 98T chassis number 4, which donated the metal here, with good looks designed in collaboration with Classic Team Lotus in black and gold John Player Special livery. It’s a gorgeous chronograph with serious heritage for a decent (and currently discounted) price.

More details at REC.

Riley Watch Co. Howard Hughes Chronograph HH02

Any pilots’ watch worth its wings has a few different ‘marks’ under its belt and burgeoning aviation brand Riley is no different. The second generation of their colourfully handsome Howard Hughes Chronograph is slimmer and smaller – and therefore more wearable – than before, with all the same chronometric chronograph performance, applied indexes and inset subdials. It’s a subtle change, sure, but one that shows Riley is striving to improve their collection one run after the next. And who doesn’t love a colourful pilots’ watch?

More details at Riley Watch.

Fleux FLX003

It’s fitting that elsewhere in this issue we go over why some watches have triangle markers at 12 o’clock (in our Oracle Speaks section, if you’re struggling to find it), as Fleux has taken that idea and run with it. Inspired by the Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle, the Fleux FLX003 blows that 12 o’clock index up to gigantic proportions and teams it with a pair of broad arrow hands to create one of the most readable dive watches in the micro space. It still has all the elements of a vintage military diver, just with a lot more flair. We love it.

More details at Fleux Watches.

Studio Underd0g 01Series Gen 3

What do you do when your movement-maker decides to make life hard and impose brand-ruining restrictions? If you’re Studio Underd0g, you use the same manufacturer but make a better movement. In the wake of Seagull upping their minimum order to a hefty 10,000 movements, Studio Underd0g took the opportunity to create a bespoke new calibre with the Chinese manufacturer, a cool, blacked-out number with a 50-hour power reserve. Sure, it’s not sexy – until you look at it through the exhibition caseback. Plus, there are other quality-of-life changes in the new version, like a slimmer 12.9mm case, a larger crown and ‘Assembled in Great Britain’ lettering on the dial. It’s not as headline-grabbing as a passion fruit collab with Moser, but for the many, many (many) fans of the brand, these are all welcome changes, for just £50 more than the Gen 2.

More details at Studio Underd0g.

Heinrich Taucher Forged Carbon V2

We’ve seen a lot of intense lume over the past year or so, from more full lume dials than ever before to full lume cases. But quantity isn’t everything and the Taucher from Stuttgart-based Heinrich is showing a more inspired use of the glowing material. The bezel and dial of the 1970s-inspired design look like classic forged carbon, but here they’re infused with lume, meaning those random patterns glow in the dark. Paired with a wavy line of lume around the circumference of the bezel – and available in both blue and red – the Taucher proves that there’s more to glowing in the dark than sheer brightness.

More details at Heinrich.

Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack

My colleague Michael all but called Venezianico’s Arsenale his favourite microbrand release of the year when the Venetian brand launched it earlier this year and it’s not hard to see why. It’s Parmigianiesque good looks and cool colours ooze Italian flair. Now though, they’re turning the lights out and incorporating one of my favourite microbrand releases (the Boldr Singularity) with a musou black dial. The paint absorbs 99.4% of light, so gazing into this particular abyss is an experience.

More details at Venezianico.

Micromilspec Monogram

While they initially cut their teeth in the custom watch world – specifically when it comes to military squadron watches – Micromilspec’s civilian, off-the-shelf debut, the Milgraph, didn’t have any customisation. Now though, the Monogram bridges the gap. Made from a similar chassis to the Milgraph, the new piece allows you to put your own stamp on the dial – literally. A family crest, a logo, letters, you can customise the dial how you want. Although I’d be careful not to take up too much of it; the diamond pattern, inspired by a Glock pistol grip, is worth leaving some space for.

More details at Micromilspec.

Detrash Gotham’s Vigilante

Batman is a name that we hear a lot in the watch world, though largely most brands are happy to let Rolex take the caped crusader’s name in vain. Not so Detrash, who have taken Bruce Wayne’s alter-ego to heart with the aptly named Gotham’s Vigilante. Almost entirely blacked out with a few hints of vintage Batman yellow, it’s made with 80% recycled steel so that you know you’re on the good team. With an automatic movement, solid specs and a strict limited edition, it’s also a steal. So maybe you’re not that good?

More details at Detrash.

Ubiq Dual Seaset

Colour, colour everywhere! Summer might be over but don’t let your wrist game cool off with this splash of colour from Singaporean microbrand Ubiq. The Dual gets its name from its two-colour bezel and the Seaset colourway – a tropical mix of orange and turquoise – is the kind of brightness I need in my life. Paired with a matching turquoise dial, and orange hour and second hands, it’s a splash of bold colour. Sure, there are more subtle colourways (the classy white and blue Navysilver, for example), but who needs subtlety? Especially at impulse buy levels of accessibility.

More details at Ubiq.

Zenith’s exploration of extreme environments started all the way back in 2021 with the Defy Extreme Desert followed by a subsequent Glacier edition. Now, completing the trio and officially ending this series is the Defy Extreme Jungle. A 1/100^th second chronograph dedicated to the majesty of tigers.

It’s worth stating that the Defy Extreme is quite a divisive timepiece. On one side you have fans who like its high specs and bold design and on the other side are those who find it all a bit too, well, extreme. Whichever camp you find yourself in, this new edition is not likely to change your mind. If anything, it pushes the extreme aesthetic of the watch even further due to its use of contrasting colours and wide variety of patterns and finishes.

Starting with the case, it measures a broad 45mm in diameter and is constructed from a combination of brushed titanium and Tiger’s Eye gemstone. The stone is specifically used for the chronograph pushers and the dodecagon portion of the bezel, emphasising the layered appearance of the design. The Tiger’s Eye pattern finds particular resonance because the dial itself also features a tiger stripe motif.

Specifically, the scales of the tricompax chronograph subdials are bright orange with tiger stripes. It contrasts wildly with the green translucent glass of the openworked dial. The overall impression is much like tiger stripes in fashion, bold and unapologetic. It will undoubtedly be a magnet for criticism but it’s also fun. In terms of functions, the dial displays hours, minutes, small seconds, 1/100^th second chronograph, 30-minute timer and 60-second timer. It’s a testament to how fast a 1/100^th second chronograph really is (rotating once per second) that a regular 60-second chronograph function becomes a subdial.

Powering these impressive functions is the El Primero 9004 movement. It uses a dual escapement system, one for the regular time functions that operates at a hi-beat 5 Hz frequency and one for the chronograph that has an insane 50 Hz frequency. In a mechanical watch that’s incredibly high. The power reserve is given as 50-hours, which I assume doesn’t account for the power intensive chronograph being active the whole time.

The Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle is priced at CHF 25,900 (approx. £23,000) in a limited edition of 50-pieces. Not to put too sharp a point on it again but this is not a watch that will appeal to everyone but with it being so exclusive, not everyone can get one. One thing’s for sure, with this behemoth on the wrist, you’ll certainly be the apex predator around.

More details at Zenith.

While I’ve never been able to successfully stand up on a surfboard, I’ve always seen the appeal of the sport. The exhilaration of searching for the perfect wave and finding the balance between the raw power of nature and your body in order to ride it out in effortless style. Look at the famous picture of Gabriel Medina from the Paris Olympics this year and you could believe that surfing is a superpower. Why is surfing relevant? Well, the Sea Ace Limited Edition from British watch designer Helium is designed to be the ultimate aquatic sports watch and diver.

Starting with the case, it measures 42mm in diameter, which is very typical of a dive watch as it has to be large enough to provide a legible display in low light conditions underwater. In terms of case construction the Sea Ace is pretty unique. It has an inner case made from steel with a tough DLC coating that’s then further protected by an outer case made from high strength high temperature fibreglass.

This material was originally developed for use in high temperature environments such as close to car engines, so it’s more than sufficient for withstanding the power of the Hawaiian sun while you’re catching some waves. On top of that it provides the Sea Ace with 200m water resistance, perfect for surfing.

Aesthetically, it’s a very bold and sporty design with a chunky bezel and pronounced crown guards. The black colour also contrasts superbly with the green luminous numerals and markings on the unidirectional dive timer bezel and main display. The dial itself follows the California arrangement of numerals with Roman numerals along the top and Arabic numerals on the bottom separated by triangle and rectangle markers at the cardinal points.

This layout was popularised during WWII so that you can read it easily at a glance from any angle. Essentially, while you’re being buffeted about by the water and going ass over tea kettle in the waves it should be pretty easy to read the time no matter the orientation of yourself or the watch. Plus, there’s the fact that the name California also conjures images of palm beaches along the Golden Coast.

Housed inside the Helium Sea Ace is the Miyota OS 2415 – 20A quartz movement. Being quartz helps ensure accuracy as well as limiting the risk to delicate mechanical parts in the maelstrom of the sea on top of being accessible. It would be nice to a mechanical number in the future. The movement is protected by a solid caseback, which is decorated with an engraving of the Union Jack because Helium Watches are based here in the UK. So perhaps the surfing you have in mind should be more Cornwall and Devon than Hawaii and Cali. It’s priced at £495 during the Black Friday period with a 30% discount in a limited edition of 250 pieces.

More details at Helium.

The fight for the title of thinnest mechanical watch in the world is always a competitive one. The current reigning champion is the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing at a thickness of just 1.65mm. However, the watch that inspired Chaykin to create the ThinKing was the former world’s thinnest watch from 2022, the Richard Mille RM UP-01. A sensational watch measuring 1.75mm in a limited edition of 150 pieces that sold out instantly. Now though, the RM UP-01 is up for sale at auction for the first time at Antiquorum’s sale tomorrow, November 10^th, 2024.

Specifically, the piece being sold is number 35 out of the 150 that exist and considering it’s such a strict limited edition, that provides plenty of provenance. It measures 51mm x 39mm in titanium with a brushed finish across the surface and the Ferrari logo in the lower quadrant towards 5 o’clock. Richard Mille and Ferrari’s partnership is well documented, especially when it comes to pushing boundaries in both horology and motorsport.

In terms of auction estimate, Antiquorum have given the Richard Mille RM UP-01 a range of CHF 1,000,000 – 2,000,000. That’s quite broad considering the retail price of $1,880,000 (approx. CHF 1,600,000), leaving plenty of room for a potential loss. I think that’s actually one of the more reasonable auction predictions I’ve heard in a long time due to the insane amount of money already involved and also the uncertainty in the watch market recently. It is genuinely difficult to predict how much interest a watch like this will generate and this may well set the benchmark for all future sales of the watch.

Of course, the RM UP-01 isn’t the only watch being sold this weekend. Other notable timepieces at the auction include a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater Ref. 5074R-001 (est. CHF 350,000 – 450,000) and an unusual Rolex Zerographe unworn since the 1930s (est. CHF 150,000 – 250,000). But it’s not just all ultra high-end watches. We also have our eye on the cool 1981 Tudor Submariner (est. CHF 5,000 – 8,000).

More details at Antiqourum.

A good bottle of whisky is indicative of good taste. At least, that’s my excuse for consistently having a couple of single malts on the go at any one time. But nothing says good taste better than a boutique whisky. I’m not talking about the usual Glens that litter most pub top shelves. I’m talking about the more intriguing, unusual liquids that you just don’t see that often. Often, they come with a distinctive flavour profile, often they’ll come with labels that demand attention but always they’re worth trying. So, if you’re using your whisky collection as shorthand for your impeccable taste – or simply want to sample off the beaten Highland track – look no further.

Wharf Distillery Equinox, £85

A port finish whisky is always a good bet if you like smoother, sweeter drams – as I do. Seriously, I can’t get enough of the stuff, and Wharf Distillery’s twist on the theme has everything you could want. It’s not just a touch either. The whisky’s aged in much smaller casks than normal, giving the liquid an accelerated aging process, offering the kind of complexity you’d expect from a whisky many times its age. If that weren’t boutique enough, there’s also a pagan flavour to the aptly named Equinox. That being, well, the Equinox. Each barrel is filled on the Vernal Equinox and bottled on the Autumnal equinox. Whether that helps the flavour or not, I can’t rightly say. But it’s a cool thing to know about your whisky all the same.

More details at Wharf.

Woven Hemispheres, £50

Woven is all about creating unusual blends. Most mainstream whiskies are blended and they can often show off something greater than the sum of their parts. Those parts however are usually at least geographically similar; not so with Hemispheres. On the one hand you have single grain whisky from Scotland, the consistent base to most Scotch blends you’ll have sampled before. On the other however, you have a single malt from New Zealand label Thomson based on a manuka-smoked distillate. The result is equal parts smoky and floral, two very different whiskies finding harmony. Think orange, incense and a herby finish, soft and lingering. It’s fantastic – and worryingly affordable for something like this.

More details at Woven.

Samaroli Single Malt Speyside 2022 Scotch Whisky, £98

I promised fantastic labels and that was pretty much all directed at Samaroli. The Italian whisky curator took one look at some of the funky labels coming out of New World wines and thought, ‘we can do better.’ And so, they did, approaching whisky with an oenophile’s palate. The descriptions of their drams are written like poetic riddles, but the general rule of thumb is complexity and intensity. Their 2022 Speyside edition is rich and spicy, with toasted notes and plenty of florality. It’s as well balanced as you’d expect from the legendary whisky area, but dialled up to new heights. If you have this on your shelf, someone will want to try it. If you let them, they may well try to leave with the bottle.

More details at Samaroli.

House Of Hazelwood Legacy Collection The Transatlantic, £1,300

A fine whisky isn’t always about flexing your wallet as much as it is your palate, but every now and then you can do both. First, House of Hazelwood don’t do things in halves and ‘premium’ doesn’t come close. The fact that this bottle sits at £1,300 and is still their de facto entry level says a lot. But more importantly, it does what the brand does best: surprises. The Transatlantic is named such for a very good reason. If you were to blind taste test the liquid, you’d assume it was bourbon rather than Scotch. That’s not just because of the American oak, but the creaminess, the sweetness and the mouthfeel of a fantastic bourbon, underpinned by aged Scottish grain whisky. It’s miraculous. You can also win a virtual tasting session with House of Hazelwood here.

More details at House of Hazelwood.

That Boutique-Y Whisky Company North British, £89.95

Combining unusual distilleries and stories with the kind of labels that would put Beavertown to shame, That Boutique-y Whisky Company does what it says on the tin. In this instance, that tin denotes a maize-based blended grain whisky from the historical North British Distillery, aged for 35 years. It also has Blofeld and his signature cat on the label… and I’m not sure which of those two makes me want a bottle more. This is a particularly light whisky for its age, perfect for introducing people to what makes a great, mature dram. Think vanilla and tropical on the nose, with a sweet-spicy flavour and oak aplenty. If this doesn’t have non-believers lining up to sample it, nothing will.

More details at thatboutiqueywhiskycompany.com

Every year the horological glitterati flock to Watches & Wonders, Geneva and the world’s most important watch show. It’s the watch fair where the great and the good of the industry gather to announce their yearly slate of new releases and latest horological innovations. Well, now you can be among them as Panerai is giving one Oracle Time reader a pair of tickets to attend Watches & Wonders 2025. 

Panerai will welcome you and host you on their stand, but you’ll also be attending on one of the press days – usually reserved for serious insiders like ourselves. That means complimentary (and exceptional) food and drink all day and the chance to visit the expansive array of watchmakers showing off their upcoming 2025 line-ups. We’re talking horological royalty all the way to astonishing independents.

The winner of the Panerai Watches & Wonders tickets will receive two Day access passes to the show, a guided tour of the Panerai booth including a touch and feel session with the brand’s latest timepieces, return flights from the UK to Geneva and transport from the airport in Geneva to the exhibition venue. An action packed day that will make you feel like a true jet-setter (a great excuse to break out your GMT wristwatch for that change in time zone).  

So, if you’ve ever wanted to experience how the other half of the watch industry live, this is your opportunity. All you need to do is enter your details below for your chance to win. Also please read the terms and conditions as this prize is only available to UK residents. Good luck!

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The tasting menu is a staple of fine dining in London. Similar in concept to Japan’s Omakase, it puts the chef in full control of your culinary journey. They shape the number of courses and dishes to bring out the strongest elements of the ingredients involved. And those ingredients are often seasonal and locally sourced for an added layer of sustainability. Here’s a look at some of London’s best tasting menu restaurants you should try.

KOL

KOL’s tasting menu is inspired by Mexican cuisine and rotates to suit seasonal British ingredients. A sample menu includes girasol, pitaya, langoustine tacos, huarache, chimole, tetela, trout zacahuil, lamb mole, lamb barbacoa, nieve sorbet, tamal, and buñuelos. Like Ikoyi, it also makes an appearance on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, at an incredible 17th position. It’s the project of chef Santiago Lastra, who you can meet during the chef’s table experience with a private dining room for up to 20 guests.

Where: 9 Seymour Street, Marylebone, W1H 7BA
Price: £230
Bookings: kolrestaurant.com

IKOYI

Founded in 2017, Ikoyi quickly rose to notoriety for its blend of fine dining, traditional African flavours, and British seasonal ingredients. In 2024 it came 42nd on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, published by a panel of 1,080 culinary experts. On top of that, it’s one of only 36 UK restaurants to achieve two Michelin star status or higher. The man behind the menu is chef Jeremy Chan known for his precision and balance of taste and presentation.

Where: 180 Strand, Temple, WC2R 1EA
Price: £350
Bookings: ikoyilondon.com

Core By Clare Smyth

There are 36 restaurants in the UK with two Michelin stars or higher, or more specifically there are 27 two stars and just nine three stars. Core by Clare Smyth is not only one of the elite three- star restaurants, it’s also the first British restaurant run by a woman to achieve this status. Clare Smyth’s service to hospitality resulted in her being awarded an MBE in 2013. A sample seasonal menu includes Portland crab, Norfolk turnip, Cornish sea bass, Highland wagyu with Porthilly oysters, and a desert inspired by the Bakewell tart.

Where: 92 Kensington Park Road, Kensington, W11 2PN
Price: £245
Bookings: corebyclaresmyth.com

A.Wong

Two Michelin star restaurant, A. Wong is the project of Andrew Wong, who took over from his parents in 2012. They have a range of menu options, but our focus here is the The Collections of China tasting menu, which presents a wide range of traditional and contemporary Chinese cuisine produced from fine British ingredients. The multi- course meal is enjoyed over three hours and features dishes such as Isle of Mull seared scallop and honey glazed Iberico char siu, Shanghai steamed dumplings, and a fish dish evocatively titled ‘Why we don’t need to eat Shark’s fin soup’.

Where: 70 Wilton Road, Pimlico, SW1V 1DE
Price: £200
Bookings: awong.co.uk

The Clove Club

Set in the impressive surroundings of Shoreditch Town Hall, The Clove Club offers a pared back look at the essentials of modern cuisine. Dishes include Orkney scallops, blue shell lobster, suckling pig leg, Anjou pigeon, and sorbet. It’s as quintessential as it’s possible to get with fine British tasting menus; seasonal and superb. The chef patron of The Clove Club is Isaac McHale, a Scottish chef born in Orkney, hence his close connection to Scottish ingredients.

Where: Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old Street, Shoreditch, EC1V 9LT
Price: £225
Bookings: thecloveclub.com

Earlier in the year rumours began flying that Rolex would be stepping down from its position as the lead watch and official timing sponsor of the Formula 1 circuit. At the time people immediately began to speculate that Tag Heuer would be stepping up to fill the void and now it has been confirmed that those rumours are true. Although alongside Tag Heuer, the watchmaker’s parent company LVMH is also stepping into the Formula 1 realm as well.

The deal between F1 and LVMH kicks in from 2025 and consists of a 10-year global partnership. The precise details of the partnership are sparse on the ground but it has been confirmed that Tag Heuer, Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessey will all have a role.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith

If I had to guess: Tag Heuer will become the timing partner, Moët Hennessey will provide the podium champagne and Louis Vuitton will likely be in charge of trophy presentation like they’ve done in other sports (and eSports). It’s not that surprising that this is happening considering that when Frédéric Arnault was CEO at Tag Heuer he made a big deal of F1 being a huge part of their plans for growth – they even have a collection called the Formula 1 that includes high profile collaborations with the likes of Mario and Kith. And now that he’s CEO of LVMH Watches, he can help to make that a reality.

Stefano Domenicali, President & CEO of Formula 1, Bernard Arnault, Chairman & CEO of LVMH Group, Greg Maffei, President & CEO of Liberty Media, Frédéric Arnault, CEO of LVMH Watches.

Regarding the partnership Frédéric said, “In recent years, Formula 1 has truly become one of the most desirable sports in the world. It’s a vibrant discipline that echoes a number of values that are very important to us, such as innovation, team spirit and performance. For many years, several of our Maisons have also chosen to invest in Formula 1, whether to create unique experiences or for moments of celebration. With our Maisons and the expertise of our Group, we want to further grow this experiential dimension that Formula 1 provides all over the world. We are only at the very beginning of this partnership, but the seasons that await us promise to be extraordinary.”

More details at LVMH and Tag Heuer.

 

 

 

 

 

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What was the last watch you bought?

A Breitling Navitimer Chronograph limited edition with a light blue dial. I love it as it’s the same colour as the sky.

Do you collect anything outside of watches?

Aviation memorabilia as it reminds me of the pioneering feats that have marked history. It was an incredible time when people were fascinated by innovation. Today, many take everything for granted.

What’s at the top of your wishlist?

I wish that our world could become cleaner and more efficient in its use of energy and resources. For this, we need the participation of every corporate and individual, but nothing will happen without the intervention of governments. As long as it is legal to pollute, people will continue to pollute without worry. Therefore, politicians have to modernize our legal frameworks in order to create a need to use modern and efficient solutions.

Bertrand Piccard atthe Solar Impulse Foundation

What is a recent find or discovery?

Every week, my Solar Impulse Foundation discovers innovators who have developed new solutions that can protect the environment or fight climate change in an economically profitable way. Reconciling the ecology with the economy. There’s always a very healthy suspense in my team: what’s the next one we’ll find?

What inspires you?

The legacy that I have received from my father and grandfather to live like an explorer with the pioneering spirit inspires me to make my dreams come true far beyond conventional limitations and the status quo. This is what I want to share with my children, and all those of their age, for the search for a better quality of life for all. My intention is to lead disruptive actions achieving what many consider impossible.

What is a book, podcast, or album that changed the way you think?

Antoine de Saint-Exupery, who combines so well the vital quest for spirituality with the experience of flying. And Paulo Coelho, with this beautiful quote: “if you think that adventure is dangerous, try routine, it is deadly!” I really think that the worst in life is not to take risks, because finally you learn to manage the risks. The worst thing is to sleep in the routine, certitudes and habits.

Breitling Orbiter 3

Who is a celebrity that you admire?

Many pioneers have influenced my life since I met several of them when I was a child, like Edmund Hillary, Neil Armstrong, Charles Lindbergh, Thor Heyerdahl, Jacques Mayol, Alain Bombard, Wernher Von Braun, Scott Carpenter, and John Glenn. They have all shaped my dreams and aspirations. But my favorite is Henry Dunant, the initiator of the International Red Cross Committee in the 19th century. I think no one else has alleviated the suffering of so many people in the world.

What is your ideal long weekend?

Going wild snow skiing with friends or kite surfing with my family

Bertrand Piccard in the Breitling Orbiter 3

What would we always find in your fridge?

Fresh vegetables I grow in my garden. It’s another of my favourite hobbies. I love to see how a little seed becomes an edible plant. It’s a miracle of nature.

What is a rule or mantra that you live by?

Exploration is a state of mind where you get rid of old and useless beliefs that keep you a prisoner of old ways of thinking, where you play with the doubts and the questions to stimulate your performance and your creativity. In that sense, I live with a compass in my heart, indicating, not the north, but everything that has not been done yet.

Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones

What does the year ahead look like for you?

Besides leading the Solar Impulse Foundation, I’ve launched the Climate Impulse project, the first zero emission non-stop flight around-the-world with a green hydrogen-powered airplane. At a time when so many people think that decarbonisation of the aviation sector is impossible, I want to show that it’s not only possible, but exciting. You might say that I love flying around the world, and I do, because it’s the ultimate flight. You can’t do more, and you can’t do better. If you want to prove the maturity of a new clean and sustainable technology, I think this is the best way to do it. So that’s what I’m working on.

More details at Bertand Piccard.

Traveling the world on a journey of culinary exploration is likely on the majority of our bucket lists – especially in remote and beautiful locales. Striking out into the desert, up a mountain, or along a rugged coastline to discover exquisite food and fine dining that expresses the best of local cuisine is an unfettered joy. And while you’ll have to go out of your way to visit some of these restaurants, their remote nature means they often have accommodation on site or nearby, so why not make a whole trip of it and explore the area thoroughly knowing that your food needs are well taken care of.

The Rock – Zanzibar, Tanzania

What must be one of the most photogenic dining spots in the entire world, The Rock is located on the island of Zanzibar off the coast of Tanzania. Well, more specifically the former fishermen’s outpost is located on a small rocky outcrop off the coast of Zanzibar that’s only accessible at low tide or via boat. As you’d expect, the menu consists of fish caught by local fishermen. Definitely worth checking out the catch of the day.

Bookings: therockrestaurantzanzibar.com

La Mare aux Oiseaux – Brière Marshes, France

When we think of French fine dining, we typically conjure images of Provence or Parisian cafes, but La Mare aux Oiseaux bucks the trend. It’s based in the marshes of Brière on the west coast, the largest marshlands in France, full of waterways and flooded meadows. An earthy, peaty haven of wildlife and wetland birds, which is where the establishment gets its name. The restaurant is run by Michelin star chef Éric Guérin and dishes feature local fish, as well as French classics like frogs and black garlic.

Bookings: mareauxoiseaux.fr

Three Camel Lodge – Gobi Desert, Mongolia

Taking the degree of remoteness to the next level is Three Camel Lodge, which is quite literally in the middle of the Gobi Desert. The lodge offers an opportunity to experience the storied history of local nomadic peoples and their cultures with all of the gers and furniture produced by authentic Mongolian artisans. The restaurant, called Bulagtai, is an amazing room traditionally appointed with a menu that is equally traditional with a contemporary spin. Try dishes such as buuz, a meat or vegetable dumpling, and tsuivan which is a noodle dish.

Bookings: threecamellodge.com

Loch Bay – Isle of Skye, Scotland

While I couldn’t in good faith call any restaurant in England remote, I think the Scottish islands and highlands definitely count with their sweeping vistas and challenging terrain. Loch Bay is a small Michelin star restaurant located in Stein on one of the Isle of Skye’s furthest peninsulas. It operates a £145 tasting menu known as Skye Fruits de Mer, which should tell you everything you need to know about the food on offer. Plus, any excuse to visit Skye is welcome because it is one of the most magical places in the UK.

Bookings: lochbay-restaurant.co.uk

Aescher Gasthaus Am Berg – Alps, Switzerland

We wouldn’t be a wristwatch publication without featuring at least one remote Swiss restaurant in this article. The Aescher Gasthaus Am Berg, or Aescher Guesthouse on the Mountain, is exactly what it sounds like – a fabulous Alpine guesthouse tucked away into a cliffside near a series of caves. In fact, traversing through the caves is one of the recommended ways of reaching the spot. This is a back to basics hiking and mountaineering establishment. You’ll find no wi-fi here, but stunning views and hearty, traditional Swiss food and drink more than make it worth a visit.

Bookings: aescher.ch

Saffire Freycinet – Tasmania, Australia

Just look at Tasmania on a map and you’ll understand how truly wild and remote it is. As much as 49% of the island and its waters are protected habitats and national parks. In fact, our next restaurant at Saffire Freycinet can be found in one of those national parks on the east coast of the island. The region’s Mediterranean-like environment makes it a premium wine area and the oysters of Great Oyster Bay are, well, great. There is a choice of dining locations such as the 1950s decorated Lounge or the internationally renowned Palate.

Bookings: saffire-freycinet.com.au

Mil – Urubamba Valley, Peru

Peru is a fascinating country full of ancient ruins and breathtaking landscapes. Mil is a restaurant closely associated with one specific ruin as it’s located only a few metres from the Moray Archaeological Site. The restaurant offers a handful of experiences with the baseline being their $360 tasting menu but if you’re going all that way, you may as well go the full distance and experience the full Mil Immersion. This includes a tour of the Moray site, an exploration of local Andean farms, a botanical walk looking at plants and wildlife, visiting local artists and artisans, and all wrapped up with an eight-course meal at the end.

Bookings: milcentro.pe

A lot of people have written about the history of Rolex. Whether that be histories of the brand in general or specific models like the Rolex Explorer. However, Rolex themselves have rarely waded into the discourse with anything so official as a book, until now. They’ve just announced the release of Oyster Perpetual Submariner – The Watch that Unlocked the Deep, the first ever authorised history of the Rolex Submariner and Rolex’s first book to boot.

The book is written by acclaimed author Nicholas Foulkes, who has written books across the watch industry for the likes of Patek Philippe and beyond. It promises 252 pages with new and original photography alongside historical images charting the story of what is arguably the most iconic watch ever produced. From innovations and prototypes to the pioneers who wore them. It will be available in English and French.

Oyster Perpetual Submariner – The Watch that Unlocked the Deep will be available for general sale in hardback starting from October 1^st online. There will also be a limited edition of silk-bound copies available for pre-order between September 16 – 19 via the publisher’s website, WallpaperSTORE*.

Rolex has promised that this is just the first in a series of books looking at the histories of their iconic collections. Marking a new period of openness and communication from what has typically been a company that keeps their cards close to their chest. The standard edition is priced at £89 with the limited edition at £100.

More details at WallpaperSTORE*.

These days Hublot is a byword for bold, unapologetic watchmaking – just look at the awesome insanity of the MP-10 Tourbillon. However, every so often they present a watch that remembers it is possible to understated and dare I say even suave. The most recent example of which would be the Hublot Classic Fusion Centenary – WOSG Exclusive watch produced for the Watches of Switzerland 100^th Anniversary.

It’s based on the pared back edition of the Classic Fusion with a polished black lacquer dial without any hour markers or time indicators. Instead the central hour, minute and seconds hands float above an inky void dressed only with the Hublot logo and a date window at 3 o’clock. It reminds me of a shiny interpretation of the Vanta and Musuo black dials seen from brands like H. Moser and Boldr, which also have the black dial without adornment look.

What makes the Centenary edition stand out from the core collection of the Classic Fusion is the case. It measures 42mm in diameter in titanium with a frosted carbon fibre bezel. It’s the first time the Classic Fusion has been dressed with a bezel in this material, fixed to the rest of the watch with six visible H-screws. The material has a cool dappled pattern, a product of the forged carbon process which creates chaotic and random layers, in contrast to carbon fibre or TPT where the layers are uniform.

The visual impression almost reminds me of urban camouflage, which itself feels like motif right up Hublot’s alley. It works really well on the Classic Fusion because it blends the more refined aspects of the design with that typical boldness expected of the brand in a well-balanced manner.

Beneath the surface is the HUB1110 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve. The Hublot Classic Fusion Centenary – WOSG Exclusive is priced at £10,300 in a limited edition of 50 pieces. It’s also exclusive to Watches of Switzerland as the two brands come together to share their connection to the watch industry. Although Hublot is the much younger and more bombastic sibling of the two.

More details at Watches of Switzerland.

Grand Seiko continue to find new aspects of nature to inspire their textured dials. Although I imagine there is plenty to be inspired by when Japanese culture respects 72 micro seasons each year, fleeting moments of time such as the “hiding of the cherry blossom”. While it’s not linked to a specific micro season, the latest Grand Seiko is still connected to an ephemeral phenomenon in nature, the icefall. As such, the new watch is called the ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat.

Despite the name, an icefall is not a waterfall that has become frozen during the winter months, although you could probably still use that term if you wanted. The geological definition of an icefall is a rapidly moving portion of a glacier that creates a high quantity of crevasses in its surface. This is a fairly standard occurrence on the flanks of Mount Iwate near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi studio.

It finds itself expressed on the dial of the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat via a vertical striation pattern that echoes the crevassed surface of the glacier as it moves in a linear direction down the valley. Naturally it’s presented in ice blue because, well, that’s the colour of ice. Personally, I think the texture is a little bit too regular for a glacier’s surface and it is actually a better representation of a frozen waterfall. But as I mentioned, it kind of represents both of these adjacent concepts in a colloquial way, so ultimately it works really well.

The dial is held in a 37mm steel case with a thickness of 13.3mm, which is totally in keeping with the prevailing interest in vintage proportions. It also features Grand Seiko’s classic array of finishing including Zaratsu polishing and brushing. The shape is based on the heritage collection with sweeping lines from lug to lug and gentler facets than some of the more extreme GS designs.

Powering the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat is, as you may have been able to predict, a hi-beat movement. Specifically, it’s the 9S85, which has a power reserve of 55-hours and an accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day. It operates at a bph of 36,000, which is equivalent to 5 Hz. It’s visible though the sapphire exhibition caseback.

It’s priced at £5,950, which is a pretty standard price for Grand Seiko these days. It goes without saying that the dial is lovely and the movement has impressive specs. Are Grand Seiko one of the best value for money luxury watch brands?

More details at Grand Seiko Boutique.

Back in the spring of 2024 Panerai launched (technically relaunched) the Luminor Deici Giorni, a stylish GMT watch with a 10-day power reserve. A 10-day power reserve is a very impressive feat requiring not one, not two but three spring barrels. For context, most wristwatches only have one. A few months later at the end of summer Panerai have released a follow up watch featuring the same movement and complications in a new case with fresh colours, the Panerai Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT Ceramica.

Starting with the 44mm case, you may be able to guess from the name Ceramica that it’s made from ceramic, a high-tech, extremely hardwearing and virtually scratchproof material created through a complex firing process. It’s presented here in black, which is one of the most common colours of ceramic because it suits the matte finish of the material as well as being one of the easier to produce, since creating an even colour across a ceramic watch is unbelievably difficult.

The colour gives the watch a dark, stealthy appearance that wouldn’t look out of place on a military dive watch, which is of course where Panerai got their start in life, supplying the Italian navy. The same is true of the olive green sandwich dial, which is equally serious a militaristic save for the sunray brush finishing that catches the light nicely. The display features central hours, seconds and 12-hour GMT hand, with small seconds and day/night indicator on a subdial at 9 o’clock, a linear power reserve indicator at 6 and a date window at 3.

The movement providing the titular Dieci Giorni 10-day power reserve is the P.2003, which was the first calibre Panerai developed in their Neuchatel manufacture. It’s visible though the exhibition caseback. As mentioned, it has three spring barrels as well as a free-sprung balance. It’s a very impressive movement that in combination with the upgraded ceramic case and green dial leads to a price of £16,800, which feels like an appropriate increase from the £13,200 of the steel edition.

More details at Panerai.

While I tend to think of Japanese horology in terms of brands like Grand Seiko and Hajime Asaoka that bring high end mechanics and traditional techniques to watchmaking, it’s undeniable that the accessible brands from Japan are also killing it. Orient’s Bambino is fantastic for the price and Citizen is a true power house with their diverse and extensive range of watches. Citizen is extra relevant right now because it’s the 100^th anniversary of the first ever Citizen branded watch, an event they are celebrating with the launch of the Series 8 880 Limited Edition.

Off the bat, this is a really fun watch. It has an integrated bracelet design with the sporty look of a watch inspired by the 1970s. What gives it a unique character is the coloured plating on top of the 41mm steel case, which gives it a bi-colour appearance in anthracite grey and deep blue. The same colouration is used across the links of the steel bracelet, creating a cohesive look for the piece.

The dark tones of the case mirror the colours of the bi-directional rotating GMT bezel, which is split into blue and black day/night sections. Interestingly the 24-hour scale on the bezel has a 24 numeral, whereas it’s very common for a rotating scale to have a lumed dot or other marker in that position so that the bezel can be set even in low light conditions. I actually prefer the look of the complete numerical scale though as it has a hint of that Rolex Explorer II vibe while still having the additional practicality that comes from a rotation.

Where the 100^th Anniversary Series 8 880 Limited Edition really comes into its own is the dial. It has a cool undulating colour gradient that seems to shift and change across the span of the display rather than having a consistent linear change or fumé design as we normally see. This has been achieved by using mother-of-pearl tinted blue. Once you know that, it almost feels like you can see the iridescence of the material through the blue. It’s also just the right amount of intensity to pair well with the colours of the case.

As part of the 880 Mechanical series, it’s powered by an automatic movement. Specifically, the Cal. 9054 with 50-hour power reserve, an accuracy of +20/-10 seconds per day and a frequency of 4 Hz. It’s a solid enough movement of the calibre (pardon the pun) you’d expect to see from Citizen. You can view it through the exhibition caseback too. In terms of functions, it’s equipped with hours, minutes, seconds, date and a true GMT function. A true GMT allows you to adjust the hour hand by intervals of one hour without affecting the GMT hand.

I really like the use of colour on the the Citizen Series 8 880 Limited Edition because it feels special enough to warrant being a limited edition while also not being so extravagant that the watch loses its practical, almost tool watch-esque appeal. I get the same feeling from the £1,495 price tag, which is at the top end of what is generally considered daily beater/tool watch territory. It’s also limited to 2,200 pieces globally making it fairly exclusive compared to Citizen’s standard models.

More details at Citizen.

At Oracle Time we like to focus on mechanical wristwatches 99% of the time because based on feedback from you, our readers, those are the watches you’re more interested in learning about. However, every now and then a quartz watch will come along that’s worth talking about such as the ubiquitous MoonSwatch or this, the new Citizen Satellite Wave X, a watch that has the honour of being the fastest GPS satellite watch ever produced.

Firstly, what is a GPS Satellite watch? Well, as the name suggests, the watch is in communication with a network of satellites in order to track its global position. This allows it to automatically adjust itself to the correct time based on its position on Earth, accounting for changes of time zone and all but eliminating deviation, resulting in exceptional accuracy. Even without signal reception the Satellite Wave X has an accuracy +/- 5 seconds per month and that only improves when it does have a signal.

Specifically, this watch uses the Satellite Wave GPS, which receives signals from satellites in just 3 seconds, making it the fastest in the world. Essentially this functions as another form of regulation and having smaller intervals, such as 3 seconds, improves accuracy on top of the accuracy that comes from being a GPS watch in the first place. In short, you can trust that the Citizen Satellite Wave X is accurate no matter where on the planet you are.

Aesthetically, Citizen have doubled down on the satellite theme. The chunky 45.4mm super titanium case is made from a single piece and has a highly facetted shape. The sharp angles and triangular facets that lead into the integrated bracelet are representative of the panels of a satellite. This is also true of the unique, stepped ring around the inner portion of the dial, which has the look of some space age device you might expect to see attached to the James Webb telescope.

The Citizen Satellite Wave X builds on this by having an inkjet print of stars across its display, giving the appearance of aventurine glass at a more accessible price. It’s also available with either a black or blue backdrop. It looks great and, in my opinion, helps what would otherwise be quite an overwhelming and complex dial to feel cohesive. It almost makes the various complications and scales such as the world timer, date window and days/power reserve/light level indicator fade into the white noise of the stars. That’s all a slightly over the top way of saying that it’s much more stylish and elegant than you would expect.

Powering the watch is the Cal. F150, which is a reference to the original Wave Satellite F100 from 2014. In fact, the name Wave Satellite X is not arbitrary as the X is a Roman numeral denoting the 10^th anniversary of the F100 model. The Cal. F150 is an EcoDrive movement, which means that it’s powered by light, which is why one of the functions is a light level indicator so you can check if it’s charging. Although similarly to how the watch remains accurate even without a signal, the EcoDrive movement has a battery life of 7-years at full charge even if it never sees light again (in power saving mode).

Yes, this watch is quartz but it is to a quartz Ronda three-hander what a Vacheron Constantin is to a Sellita, meaning that the price of £1,395 is fully justified. Just because we don’t always look at quartz watches doesn’t mean there isn’t an electric equivalent to haute horology and this is it.

More details at Citizen.

Image credit: @rafaelnadal

The Paris Olympics, which came to a close last night, has been a fantastic festival of sporting achievement and amazing storylines that have seen the world glued to their screens or attending the stadiums in person. As always, while we were rapt as the likes of Noah Lyles and Keely Hodgkinson proved their supremacy, we also had one eye on the wrists of the great and good in attendance to spot their wristwatches. So here are the epic wristwatch moments from the Paris Olympics 2024.

Athletics

Noah Lyles – Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon

Image credit: @nojo18

In one of the fastest and closest 100m races in recent history, Noah Lyles proved himself the fastest. During the race he wore the Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon featuring Apollo 8, making us wonder if he has rockets in his heels as well as on his wrist.

Keely Hodgkinson – Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”

Image credit: @britishathletics

One of the biggest success stories of the Athletics for team GB, Keely Hodgkinson ran to gold in the 800m. On her wrist was the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”, weighing just 55g.

Yaroslava Mahuchikh – Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”

Image credit: @europeanathletics

If Omega’s dominance at the athletics were ever in doubt, Yaroslava Mahuchikh the high jump world record holder was also wearing the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”, evidently a popular timepiece among Omega’s sporting ambassadors.

Armand Duplantis – Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” Special Edition

Image credit: @omegawatches

While Omega debuted an Armand Duplantis special edition ahead of the games, he showed up to the Pole Vault final with a completely different watch. Winning the gold and a world record wearing a Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” Special Edition in Swedish colours.

Tennis 

Novak Djokovic – Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic

Image credit: @djokernole

After a few years searching for a watch partnership, Novak Djokovic eventually found one in Hublot. He was wearing the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic as he celebrated his gold medal, the final major trophy that had so far eluded him in his career.

Rafael Nadal – Richard Mille RM27-05 Flying Tourbillon

Image credit: @rafaelnadal

While Rafa’s performance on the courts of Roland Garros didn’t quite go to plan, he was resplendent in his role in the opening ceremony. As one of the most famous Richard Mille ambassadors, he wore the RM27-05 Flying Tourbillon throughout the event,

Carlos Alcaraz Garcia – Rolex Day-Date 40

Image credit: @carlitosalcarazz

The most recent Wimbledon Champion could only achieve silver at Paris 2024, but still celebrated the achievement with a Rolex Day-Date 40 in yellow gold on the podium – he probably wishes his medal was the same colour.

Skateboarding

Sky Brown – Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

Image credit: @skybrown

As a Tag Heuer ambassador, Sky Brown, the 16-year-old skater for Team GB, has worn her Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph on several occasions now. And now it has accompanied her on her journey to back-to-back Olympic bronze medals.

Andy MacDonald –A Stealthy Street Cool Sports Watch

Image credit: @skateboardgb

At 51, Andy MacDonald was the oldest competitor in the skating representing GB, a true legend of skating. Hel us identify his watch by leave a comment at the bottom of this article. It’s a street cool timepiece with a black case and white Arabic numerals in the style of a pilot’s watch. It reminds me of the Seiko 5 Sports Stealth, IWC Pilot’s Watch Top Gun or Zenith Pilot but unfortunately the colours and logos don’t match.

Tony Hawk – Waldhoff Capital Carbon Silver

Image credit: @tonyhawk

Tony Hawk is well known for wearing the Waldhoff Capital Carbon Silver. He was attending the skating as a spectator to see his long time friend Andy MacDonald compete, as well as filming the introduction to the sport short video for the Paris games.

Fencing

Miles Chamley-Watson – Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph

Image credit: @fencer

While the name of American fencer Miles Chamley-Watson might not be well known in the UK, the fact that he wore a Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph worth approximately £300,000 while swinging a sword is frankly insane.

Golf

Tommy Fleetwood – Tag Heuer Connected

Image credit: @officialtommyfleetwood

Our friend here at OT magazine stuck to his preferred timepiece, the TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition. Its additional digital features provide useful information for his games.

Spectating

Daniel Craig – Unreleased Seamaster 300m with No-Date

Image credit: Omega Watches

Daniel Craig was seen in attendance of several events wearing an unreleased Omega Seamaster Dive 300m with a dateless design. Rumours online suggest it may have a ceramic bezel but Omega have announced detail will be released in due course.