Even among the horological chaos of Watches and Wonders, there are a handful of pieces that stand imperious above the crowd, and there’s always a strong chance one of them can be found at Jaeger-LeCoultre. Move over Reverso, because this year that showpiece is not just a new tourbillon – because that was always going to be the case – but a shiny new look for the entire Duometre collection, the highlight of which is the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual.
The Duometre itself has been a JLC mainstay since 2007 but has since taken a step back behind the Reverso, Polaris, Master Control… and pretty much everything else in their collection. So, here’s a quick refresher. In the perfect watch, the energy transfer from barrel to movement would be constant. That’s why constant force mechanisms are a thing. But complications mess that up by drawing extra energy from the mainspring, thus impacting accuracy. The Duometre solves that problem by giving the complication its own mainspring and geartrain, simple but effective.
As part of this renewed Duometre collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre have also reprised their adoration of multi-directional tourbillons. By the time you’ve built a movement with a whole new geartrain in the pursuit of accuracy, who wants gravity messing things up? The Heliotourbillon is two steps above its ‘common’, single-plane cousin and operates with three different cages on three different axes.
The first is set at 90 degrees from the movement; the second is at a further 90 degrees and together they’re held on a 40-degree axis. Then a final cage surrounds the two of them and doubles as the 60-second counter. The result is a spinning top of chronometric kineticism, all weighing less than 0.7 grams. It’s nuts.
Given its movement, the Heliotourbillon is obviously a power drain, but if the need for a second barrel wasn’t evident enough from that, there’s also a perpetual calendar, the final member of the triumvirate that makes up the calibre 388. It needs correcting in the year 2100, which is impressive – but it’s still not the most accurate calendar of the year. That goes to IWC’s insane secular number.
It’s not just mechanical advancements for the Duometre collection though; the case of the Jaeger-Lecoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual has been given a complete revamp too. The new, rounded, pebble-smooth affair is designed to ape 19th century pocket watches, with a deeper-notched crown and comparatively sharp lugs. It’s more classical than we’ve come to expect from Jaeger-LeCoultre of late and I’m here for it – even if said case is a necessarily grandiose 44mm across of rose gold.
Every year Jaeger-LeCoultre have a show piece, and this might be my favourite for a while. Sure, it doesn’t have the drama of a Westminster chime, but the movement of that Heliotourbillon is just as captivating. And honestly, the Duometre needed a revamp, so it’s about time. Oh and as for price, if you need to ask…
Price and Specs:
More details at Jaeger-LeCoultre.
